07.06.2019 51 734

How to properly shape peppers to speed up the ripening and growth of fruits?!

Growing crops on a plot of land is a rather painstaking and labor-intensive task. Each type of plant requires special care, from the moment of growing seedlings to harvesting. Of course, any owner of a plot of land tries to rationally use every square meter of his garden. At the same time, it is important to harvest a decent harvest in the fall and thereby reduce the cost of purchasing imported vegetables for the winter. This article will discuss how to properly plant peppers in order to achieve maximum yield.

Pepper cultivation

Traditionally, gardens grow a little bit of everything. After all, the main part of the plot is planted with potatoes. After analyzing the location of the crops from the previous harvest, you can begin planting new seedlings. There is an opinion that the same crop should not be planted in the same place for two years in a row. Thus, it is possible to significantly increase the amount of harvest.

In order to get a good harvest of sweet peppers, it is necessary to perform the following tasks in strict sequence:

• buy seeds of the variety you like and carefully study the instructions prescribed by the manufacturer;
• sow seeds in the ground to grow seedlings;
• plant seedlings in separate cells for better growth and acclimatization;
• plant seedlings in the garden;
• water and fertilize;
• pinch;
• collect ripe fruits from the bush.

It would seem that you plant and water, and a little later all that remains is to collect the fruits of your labors. Actually this is not true. Each crop requires proper care and timely planting. By ridding the plant of excess, unnecessary shoots, you can achieve:

• in flowers - rapid and longer flowering;
• in fruit-bearing plants - an increase in yield due to large fruits that ripen faster.

Before planting seedlings, it is necessary to water the bed properly, and after waiting for some time, it will fluff up. Peppers should be planted in moist soil and then watered additionally. However, you need to be vigilant, since pepper is sensitive to both waterlogging and drought.

Pepper, like many crops, loves warm weather, sunlight, and moderate soil moisture. Mostly it gives good yields if it grows in the soil:

• sandy loam,
• medium loam;
• floodplain;
• black soil.

A high level of acid in the soil can be simply destructive for peppers. You can achieve the required humidity in the garden bed by placing dry grass around the root system.

In addition to arranging an irrigation system that allows life-giving moisture to be delivered to each plant, it is necessary to carry out loosening after a certain period of time. It is the periodic alternation of these two processes that will have a beneficial effect on the development of the bush, providing the root system with everything necessary.

Planting peppers

All cultures love warmth. Therefore, their planting is planned at a time when frosts and temperature drops are no longer expected. A culture such as pepper is widely used in cooking, raw and canned. There are more than enough colors (red, yellow, green, orange, dark green) and configurations of these fruits. They may take the form:

• cone-shaped;
• ovoid;
• pyramidal;
• trunk-shaped;
• tomato-shaped;
• cherry-shaped.

Interesting to know: it contains more vitamin C than lemon. Doctors strongly recommend eating sweet peppers as a natural appetite stimulant. Since it is considered a dietary product, no allergic reaction occurs after taking it.

• Having planted pepper seedlings in the ground, you need to carefully monitor how they will endure this stressful movement. Do not forget that it is advisable to plant seedlings in the evening, when the heat has subsided, and be sure to water them for better acclimatization. Since the air temperature is more favorable at night, the plant will be much more comfortable acclimatizing.

• In addition to the main shoot, any plant also produces side shoots. When you have doubts about whether the peppers are growing, you need to understand that if you don’t remove them, you may not have enough strength to do everything. As a result, the fruits will be small and will not be able to ripen normally. The so-called “stepchildren” grow from buds, which are located in the axils on the stem. They, like leeches, take vitality and nutrients from the plant, and sometimes even block the path of the sun's rays.

Pepper care

Unlike tomatoes, peppers must be planted with extreme care, since this crop is quite delicate and vulnerable. Moreover, this applies to pepper of various varieties and types, both bitter and sweet. There are some peculiarities of this event, which we will consider.

Based on weather conditions, independently determine the need to water the beds after several days. The frequency of subsequent watering measures should be determined solely by the well-being of the plant. However, excessive moisture can lead to rot on the stem and fruit. And from a lack of water, the fruits will not be juicy and fleshy enough. There is a recommended frequency, namely:

• 10-15 days after planting in the ground;
• during the period when mass fruit set is recorded;
• two weeks after the formation of fruits, it is necessary to fertilize the seedlings.

The choice of feeding products must be approached with extreme caution. After all, an excessive concentration of any element can destroy the plant. This applies not only to chemical compounds, but also to those tinctures that are prepared from natural ingredients of plant or animal origin.

How to pick peppers

• As the pepper grows, you need to be alert and not miss the moment when the first stepsons appear. As a rule, this moment falls during the period of life of the pepper, when 9-11 leaves have already formed. Having carefully examined all the shoots, it is important to select the 2-3 most powerful ones, which will subsequently become the main parts of the single “skeleton” of the plant.

• Until the height of the plant reaches 25-30 cm, no action should be taken to remove stepchildren. During this period, pepper seedlings are only gaining strength and actively developing. Once the plant reaches the above mark, you should begin pinching, namely:
  1. the top of the bush must be removed. As a result, the pepper bush will take on a more compact shape with beautifully developing shoots on the sides;
  2. remove all shoots located in the lower part of the bush, leaving only 4-5 upper ones;
  3. On the remaining stepsons, check for the presence of shoots and prevent the appearance of new ones.
• Left stepchildren, after their full development, are capable of producing fruits of up to 20-25 pieces per bush. At the same time, the peppers will be juicy and meaty. Typically, the flower bud is located on the main stem. Ovaries are formed on almost every branch.
• In addition, there is a possibility of shoots forming where there is no ovary. At certain intervals, it is necessary to check the bush and remove fruitless shoots, as well as those that look painful or damaged. Yellow leaves are best removed. However, all these procedures must be done with extreme care, since the stem of the plant is very fragile and can be damaged.

Pepper pinching video

• Growing peppers in a greenhouse follows a similar pattern.
• Removing excess foliage from a bush is a vital process. If this is not done, then the pepper will lack sufficient sunlight. It is possible that some particularly branchy bushes will need to be tied up. Quite often it is even necessary to install some kind of support so that the bush does not break under the weight of its own fruits. This is especially important when growing tall crops.

The relationship between weather and pepper planting

• Weather conditions play an important role in the growth of pepper. If the summer turns out to be hot and rainy, then stepsons will constantly form and there is no way to do without removing them.
• In this case, the lower leaves will need to be removed to ensure sufficient ventilation to avoid the appearance of rot and various diseases. Excessive and uncontrolled growth of stepsons can lead to the fact that the root system will not receive moisture and sunlight in the required quantities, which will lead to disruption of the plant's metabolic process.
• Dry summers and lack of watering will lead to side shoots developing very slowly and incompletely. In this case, it is better to leave the lower leaves on the bush, since they will be the only way to maintain at least some moisture in the ground.

The nuances of growing peppers

Before you begin any procedure for caring for a plant, you should carefully analyze the information about the variety being grown. Breeders could have already developed a universal variety of pepper that does not need to be processed.

• You can pinch a side shoot immediately, even at the stage of its formation, and do not wait until the ovary begins to appear on it. This approach will allow you to form a compact bush and obtain large-sized fruits.
• It is better not to touch a pepper plant that looks sick at all. Any mechanical damage can further aggravate its deplorable condition or lead to death.
• A crop like pepper prefers group planting. They love to grow together and cannot stand loneliness. If there are not as many seedlings as we would like, and the planting ends up being sparse, then in this case it is not worth removing the side shoots at all.

• During the period of rapid growing season, the bushes should be pruned repeatedly, shortening as much as possible the shoots that are longer than the rest. This action will minimize darkened areas on the branches, which will contribute to the rapid ripening of fruits. It is advisable to carry out the procedure at least once every 10-14 days, as well as after harvesting.
• Peppers can be grown both in open ground and in greenhouses. Each of the conditions has both its pros and cons. But if everything is done correctly and in a timely manner, you will get an excellent harvest even if the required temperatures are not available. However, in the latter case, the growing season increases slightly. Due to the insufficient number of insects involved in the pollination process, you may have to carry out this activity yourself.

Pepper diseases

Pepper, like many crops, is susceptible to the spread of diseases such as:

• late blight;
• white rot;
• blackleg;
• macrosporiosis;
• crown rot;
• septoria.

Of course, if you do not take any action in a timely manner, you can lose not only part of the shoots and leaves, but also the plant as a whole.

• The fruits will look underdeveloped. In addition, the invasion of pests and other insects (aphids, Colorado potato beetles, mole crickets, slugs, etc.) will cause irreparable damage to the condition of the bush. There are some subtleties in processing the plant. For example, to combat aphids, you need to treat the bush with serum diluted with water (1½ liters of serum per 10 liters of water), after which the plant should be dusted with wood ash.
• It is also very important for peppers to have compatible neighbors in the garden, such as onions, marigolds, basil, coriander, and okra. Similar herbs growing nearby serve as a kind of protection for peppers from aphids.
• It is not recommended to plant peppers near beans, since anthracnose is on the list of possible diseases for both crops. It is important to understand that diseases can affect both young plants and adults.

Even experienced gardeners may have problems with growing peppers:

• leaf fall, lignification of stems. Flowers and even the ovary may also fall off. As a rule, the reason for this is too high a temperature, insufficient watering;
• complete absence of flowering and ovary, as well as growth inhibition. This may be preceded by cooling air temperatures, watering with too cold water, and not enough light;
• formation of defective fruits (crooked) due to insufficient pollination of the plant flower.

Bulgarian is recognized as a favorite vegetable crop grown in different countries.

In Russia, gardeners have been growing this colorful vegetable for more than 65 years.

Initially, it was very difficult to obtain seedlings and gardeners tried to obtain seedlings from purchased vegetables.

Nowadays, a huge variety of varieties is available to summer residents who want to grow this capricious crop in their gardens, so that their eyes run wild when choosing the most profitable seeds for their greenhouses.

Growing peppers in a greenhouse and forming a bush in your garden is not easy even for an experienced cultivator. This plant needs painstaking care. We dream that all the spring and summer work will not be in vain. We also expect that in the fall our garden will reward us with an abundance of colorful flowers.

Expecting a decent harvest, we turn our attention to such varieties as “Winnie the Pooh”, “Orange Miracle”, “Gift of Moldova”.

They are selected exclusively for growing in a greenhouse.

Also suitable for a greenhouse are the following varieties: “Health”, “Elephant”, “Siberian Prince”, but it is always worth remembering the specific climate of the area in which the vegetable will grow.

When purchasing the treasured bags of bell pepper seeds, it is important to read the information indicated on the back side: indicators of optimal ripening temperatures, time, timing from sowing to seedling emergence, watering requirements and other features that have the most significant impact on growth.

You can sow peppers in the second ten days of March, with the advent of warm sunny days. You should select the necessary boxes with fertile soil for the seedlings.

When sowing peppers, you should adhere to a certain planting pattern: the planted seeds should be separated by a distance of at least 2 cm, so that as they grow, the sprouts do not crowd each other. Then add dry soil to the seedlings.

Usually, this happens after a couple of weeks, provided that the soil remains wet all this time.

The comfortable temperature for sprouting is about 20 degrees.

A month later, the sprouts are planted (planted in separate boxes), because each pepper needs free space - about 20 cm, for the root system to develop properly.

We keep the distance between boxes 40 cm, more is possible, the temperature in the greenhouse is 18 degrees. We provide timely watering and refreshments.

The need for stepsons

What does painstaking care of bell pepper mean? This includes moistening the shoots at the right time, getting rid of weeds, timely application of fertilizers, and operations to remove excess shoots and pinching them.

There is currently a division of opinions on the topic of removing excess shoots (pinching) of peppers:

• The first say that the Bulgarian method does not require this, that this method is harmful to the bushes and leads to a decline in the fruiting of the crop.
• The latter, on the contrary, note that the removal of stepchildren is inevitable and this process leads to rich yields. Our ancestors adhered to this method of increasing yield, which has already been tested over the years and is relevant today.

For some garden crops, such as peppers, which are grown and cared for correctly in a greenhouse, methods of removing excess shoots and pinching are sometimes simply necessary.

After all, they affect the quality and volume of fruiting.

And also trim the tops in order to allow the plant to accumulate more strength for setting fruit.

Subtleties of pinching sweet peppers

Sweet peppers should also be pinched and pinched; sometimes this is not easy, but necessary. If suddenly the procedure is not done carefully, you can destroy the plant, it can get sick, lose its inflorescences. When the bush reaches a height of 23 cm, pruning can be done.

Thus, a bush is formed and it will grow in width, the growth of lateral shoots will increase, and this will have a beneficial effect on fruiting.

It is enough to leave about 6 pieces of lateral processes.

Stepping should not be carried out during heat and prolonged drought; during drought, the crop itself creates at least the slightest shadow from the lateral shoots.

This helps retain water and prevents the soil near the rhizome from drying out, which is significantly beneficial for the pepper. If the seedlings are sick, the excess tops are also not removed. Otherwise the plant can be destroyed.

If the peppers were planted at a large distance from each other, they do not need to remove excess tops. Plants less than 20 cm in height do not need to be pinched.

This method is a necessary measure and if it is not necessary, it should be avoided. And some varieties of pepper are generally prohibited from being exposed to this effect. It is better not to engage in the operations of pinching and pinching plants with unexperienced hands, so as not to ruin the pampered crop.

In humid and hot summers, it is imperative to plant peppers.

With good moisture, the lateral layers of the pepper actively grow, expand and become an extra burden for the entire bush.

Under the yoke of the lateral shoots, the roots lack moisture and experience a lack of sunlight.

When the bush has grown to 23 cm, remove the top of the main stem. Then the lateral layers actively grow and a comfortable bush is formed. The lower shoots are cut off, leaving about 5 pieces. the strongest and largest shoots from the top of the plant.

Future harvests will be concentrated on the remaining cuttings. Pepper bushes are comfortable in the company of their own kind, so there is no point in planting them one by one. It is recommended to plant 2 bushes in the soil. into the hole.

– growing and caring for in a greenhouse, pinching and removing excess tops will create excellent conditions for development. When removing excess tops, they will become a reliable support for each other and create excellent conditions for development. Pepper varieties that grow high form 3 stems. They select the strongest, powerful shoots that are located behind the first rosette and crown flowering.

Care

The thermoregulation mode and moisture conditions in closed ground are of great importance for the scheme for removing excess pepper growth.

We also take into account that with an excess of moisture and high temperature in the greenhouse, a lot of unnecessary extra layering comes from the plant.

Given the fact that each plant must be well ventilated in order to eliminate the possibility of the appearance of harmful bacteria, all lower layers up to the first fork are removed. On a small sprout, it is removed.

Otherwise, the bush will begin to transport the necessary reserves for the growth of this ovary and slow down in growth. If you remove an unnecessary ovary, the pepper will move into growth, begin to branch and form flowers on each branch. If you do not resort to thinning, the pepper will hold on to the oppression of the foliage and you can not hope for a high yield.

Pepper is formed only on a strong shoot. It is advised to use pointed tops for cutting off, be sure to disinfect them after trimming the next bush. If you neglect this, you can ruin all the seedlings.

The diseases of one pepper are easily transferred to all the others. To influence the size of future fruits by increasing them, by the end of the growth stage of peppers, pinch all the shoots. At the same time, the bush does not consume nutrients for the growth of the crown, but only for the filling and ripening of the fruit.

The benefits of sweet peppers

• An indispensable vegetable for those who are on a diet.
• Eating crispy peppers normalizes the functioning of the central nervous system, because the vegetable helps cope with depression and insomnia. Improves memory, useful for fatigue.
• Ascorbic acid, present in pepper, strengthens the immune system.
• The combination of vitamins C and P tone blood vessels and have a beneficial effect on their elasticity, cleansing their walls, increase blood circulation and supply blood to the brain.
• Capsaicin, a constituent of the pepper enzyme, activates the gastric tract, helps increase appetite and digest food.
• Antioxidants filter the blood, absorbing cholesterol, have a rejuvenating effect on cells, dilute the blood, which affects the prevention of blood clots, and bring blood pressure to normal levels.
• Increases hemoglobin, defeating anemia.
• The treasure trove of vitamins in pepper prevents vitamin deficiency and replenishes the lack of microelements in the body, will also have a beneficial effect on the condition of the skin, give it elasticity, rejuvenate it, add shine to the hair, nails will stop breaking and flaking, and will become stronger.

Hot pepper

Features of sowing hot pepper:

• It is very popular among gourmets of various nations. This is an excellent immunomodulatory product. Varieties range from fiery hot to moderately hot.
• The most suitable temperature for sowing seedlings and their germination is about 23C. The seedlings sprout within 10 days.
• In closed ground, it is better to grow medium-sized (up to 120 cm) varietal species and hybrids: “Buratino”, “Tibul”, “Mastodon”, “Cornet” and other varietal species. Tall (up to 210 cm) large fruit varietal species - in warm winter conditions.
• Before sowing, seedlings of hot peppers are disinfected with 1% manganese or 5% hydrogen peroxide: soak the seeds for 20 minutes at a temperature of about 20C. This procedure will protect them from fungus.

Planting care:

• We sow seedlings in boxes or sections of 2 seeds. The temperature in the greenhouse should not fall below 22C. The growth of the rhizome should be affected after the seedlings have hatched on the 6th day, lowering the temperature to 12C. Of the sprouted sprouts, one strong one remains, and the weak ones are removed.
• We transfer the strengthened plant into larger containers of 4 pieces. Seedlings are planted two months after sowing. By that time, the sprouts had already acquired about a dozen leaves and strong buds.
• We plant hot pepper bushes in winter greenhouses in mid-February and until the end of March, making sure that the soil is warmed up to 15C. In sheltered ground without heating, given the climate, we plant pepper in the last decade of April or in the first decade of May. When growing different crops in the same greenhouse, it is recommended to grow hot peppers if they were, or, but only after eggplant and tomatoes this should not be done. Neighborhood with tomatoes is permitted.
• We keep the gap between the bushes somewhere around 35 cm. We grow from 4 to 13 shoots per 1 m2., It depends on the varietal type of the plant, on its height. Vegetables planted too often are more likely to get sick.
• We select a seating pattern (checkerboard or ribbon, for example) according to the size of the greenhouse, irrigation and lighting systems. You can’t deepen the bushes too much, as this interferes with growth. When planting bushes in a garden bed, you can add 5 grams. complex fertilizer, which should be mixed with the soil. Having planted the pepper in the hole, generously pour at least 3 liters of water onto each sprout. Healthy seedlings take root well two weeks after transplanting.
• Pepper is self-pollinating and sprinkling watering is not suitable for it. After the necessary watering, the ground should be moistened to a depth of 35 cm. If there is a lack of moisture, then the plant becomes covered with chestnut spots on the fruits, and the stems become woody. Water for irrigation is preferably settled, heated to a temperature of about 23 degrees.
• The plant loves light; if there is not enough light, the bushes stretch and the ovaries fall off. If the greenhouse temperature exceeds 25 degrees, it does not tolerate it well. Then the plantings should be shaded and ventilated in the morning, but drafts are not allowed.
• A tall varietal species is tied to supports as it grows. Such peppers are sometimes artificially formed by removing all the leaves, ovaries, flowers and shoots before the stem branches. There should be no more than a couple of layers left in the branching. In the last ten days of July, all the tops of the branches are fastened with a clothespin, thereby stopping the growth of flowers. Be sure to remove the fruit growing in the branch, as it will interfere with the development of plant growth.
• Of course, feeding with microelements has a beneficial effect on the setting of future fruits. It is carried out two weeks after planting. After another week, a second feeding is carried out. For example, mix 50 g of nitrophoska in 12 liters of water. Subsequently, feed the peppers every 15 days.

Based on the need for capsicum for one family, it is enough to plant 6 bushes.

Pepper is a popular greenhouse crop with a long growing season and slow generative reproduction. With a closed growing method, the yield and quality of fruits become higher than when cultivated in the field. Agricultural technology includes the mandatory formation of peppers in a greenhouse throughout the entire growing season. With properly formed bushes, it is possible to bring all the fruits to biological maturity. This is especially true for the Russian climate.

Pepper in greenhouses

At the very beginning of development, the pepper has a single stem. But later, new stems and leaves begin to appear. This leads to severe thickening of the plantings.

To ensure balanced growth and maximum fruit production, stem development needs to be regulated by removing branching stems and foliage.

Forming a bush helps:

• preserve the released nutrients for the formed fruits, and not spend them on the development of ballast green mass;
• increase ventilation;
• provide unobstructed lighting;
• reduce the likelihood of disease;
• make it easier to care for bushes;
• get juicy, aromatic peppers of the same size.

Removing side shoots by pinching

But you should not be zealous, since green mass in a certain percentage ratio, relative to the harvest, is extremely necessary. A “bare” bush will not be able to synthesize a sufficient amount of energy to grow the required number of fruits. Therefore, it is necessary to start the formation of pepper wisely, armed with knowledge and skills.

What varieties require formation

All varieties of pepper, but especially tall ones, need to remove some of the shoots. In medium-sized bushes, only barren and lower shoots are removed. This makes it possible to free the plant from unprofitable "parasites" without fruits and increase illumination and ventilation.

Low-growing and dwarf varieties bear fruit well without shaping, if the planting scheme provides for a distance between them of at least 45 cm. However, gardeners, in order to save space in the greenhouse, plant the bushes much more densely. Therefore, peppers are necessarily formed so that excessive density, lack of sufficient light and ventilation do not affect the development of plants. They are grown in open ground without shaping.

Please note! Any actions to form peppers are carried out on absolutely healthy bushes and with exclusively clean tools. This will protect the plantings from pathogens. Diseased plants are removed immediately to avoid the spread of infection.

Pepper formation increases yield

The main stages of bush formation

The process of forming peppers in a greenhouse consists of several parts. Usually two stems are left on the plant. When initially planting 4 peppers per 1 sq.m., the result is 8 stems per 1 sq.m. As new leaves and side shoots appear, developing from the axils, their number is reduced. The procedure is usually carried out every two weeks. Thus, the full development of the two main trunks is supported.

The first step is to remove the “royal” bud

Pepper flowers also develop at the nodes. A node is defined as the point on the stem from which new shoots grow, and the length of the stem between the nodes is called the internode.

The ovary of the first fruit occurs in the very first branch of the main stem. It produces peculiar substances - inhibitors that inhibit the development of other fruits.

If you need to slow down the growth of pepper fruits (for example, when planting early), then leave the crown fruit. The first inhibitory fruit is also left on the seeds. And in order to get an earlier harvest and in larger quantities, the “first-born” should be disposed of as early as possible - at the stage of a tiny bud. It often happens that the crown bud is formed not one, but more.

Crown buds should be removed

Step two - removing shoots

At the beginning of the formation of a pepper bush, two or three strong shoots are selected at the fork, which will later form the basis. The entire production capacity of the plant will be concentrated on them during the growing season. Unnecessary shoots are pinched, cutting off the growth point, that is, the top.

Usually, by this time 11-12 leaves grow. The selected shoots are called skeletal, on their basis a bush is formed. Subsequently, they act like this:

• On the skeletal branches the same “forks” begin to form as on the main stem, with buds in the center.
• At such forks, all weak and extra shoots are also pinched, just above the flower ovary and the first leaf, and the strong central shoot is left for further development.
• It is imperative to leave one leaf near the removed shoot, as it feeds the ovary of the fruit located below it.
• On the next branches, similar actions are performed, removing less strong shoots above the first leaf.
• Flower buds appear in all branches, which should be left. And you need to get rid of the buds formed in the internodes. Up to 30 fruits are left on the bush if cultivation is not planned for a whole year. When pepper is cultivated year-round, the number of buds left is increased.

Learn how to grow peppers in a greenhouse from a video prepared by experienced gardeners.

Step three - pinching out fruitless shoots and leaves

Throughout the entire development cycle, the bush is periodically inspected to identify barren shoots, which are immediately removed. Leaves that do not take part in the nutrition of the ovaries, but shade the plantings and divert many vital substances for the ripening of full-fledged fruits, are also removed.

At the same time, they get rid of damaged and deformed leaves, regardless of where they grow. Full lighting plays a decisive role in the formation of ovaries and ripening of fruits. Often, lack of lighting leads to the absence of ovaries, even with multiple flowering.

Therefore, all unnecessary leaves are removed during the growing season:

• first the leaves of the first cluster after the fruits reach maturity;
• then, as the fruits of the second cluster ripen, they get rid of the leaves under it;
• Leaves between the remaining internodes are removed in proportion. But the final removal is carried out about 45 days before the end of the season and harvesting. During this period, the plant is left alone.

Formation of pepper - diagram

Step four - pinching out the skeletal stems

When the required number of fruits are already on the bush, their growth can be enhanced by removing growth points on the main branches. Such bushes stop growing and do not waste energy on the formation of new ovaries, directing it entirely to existing fruits. It is also advisable to carry out this event 45 days before the planned completion of pepper cultivation.

Remember! When pruning any part of the bush, care must be taken not to damage the growing points, especially on the main stems. Removal is done using your fingers or small scissors or a small knife. This will help ensure accurate removal of unwanted shoots and leaves.

When pruning, it is recommended to use a powdered milk solution, into which you should periodically dip your hands and tools. The protein inactivates viruses that could potentially spread from plant to plant.

You can learn more about the principles of pepper formation in a greenhouse using this video.

Principles of seedling formation

Greenhouse owners have a question: do they need to pinch pepper seedlings? Of course, the top of the seedling should not be pinched at the initial stage. But, if the seedlings have outgrown, the formation of side shoots and crown buds has begun, you should hurry up with planting in order to quickly begin the formation of the bush.

It is not recommended to start removing excess shoots at the seedling stage, because a weakened plant can easily pick up infections at the site of damage when transplanted. And this could lead to the death of all plantings. In addition, such peppers take a very long time to take root.

If, due to circumstances, it is necessary to pinch the plant before planting it in the greenhouse, then before starting work they are treated with a solution of copper sulfate.

Pepper seedlings ready for planting

Important rules when shaping peppers

• The bush needs to be formed gradually. If all unnecessary branches are immediately cut off from a grown plant, it may die. Shoots are removed at the beginning of their appearance, before they develop.
• If a shoot grows without a single ovary, it is removed. Such shoots rob the plant of its strength and nutrients.
• After pinching, the plant should not be watered for several days; the “wounds” will dry out and heal faster. When irrigating after pinching, pathogens can enter the holes.
• Removed shoots and leaves are not recommended to be left on the beds, they must be removed from the greenhouse and disposed of.

Each stem can reach 4 m in height and require support. Therefore, the stems in the fork area are wrapped around with a ribbon of fabric or other material and attached to a support or vertically stretched twine. After tying, you need to make sure that the rope is not tied too tightly to the stem. Otherwise, the stem will be damaged during growth.

The rules for the formation of peppers described in this manual are not a dogma, but a hint on how to improve the cultivation of a popular crop. The process is influenced by many related factors: the planting pattern, the degree of illumination of plantings, the amount of watering. The degree of removal of shoots and leaves will depend on such individual conditions in the greenhouse.

It is also necessary to consider the arrangement of trellises if tall varieties are grown. By taking into account all the nuances, you can get a wonderful harvest.

Pepper is one of the leaders among vegetables for greenhouse cultivation. At the same time, many gardeners neglect the stepchildren of this crop, which is wrong. For high yields, peppers also need to be shaped.

The process of pinching is the removal of young shoots from the stem of a crop. This procedure also includes getting rid of excess foliage and flowers that do not bear fruit. The formation of pepper bushes is necessary so that the crop does not waste nutrients on unnecessary elements.

Pinching directly depends on the pepper planting scheme. For dense plantings, this procedure is necessary. If the plants have enough space to grow, then useless shoots should be removed as the plant thickens.

Planting too densely deprives the leaves of light. As a result, the fruits grow poorly and have an unattractive appearance.

The microclimate parameters in the greenhouse can influence pinching. If temperature and humidity are increased, then the plant develops leaves and shoots better. For good growth, it is necessary to ensure ventilation of each bush in the greenhouse. But to avoid diseases, the lower part of the vegetable should be removed before the first branch.

Common diseases that affect peppers:

1. White clay - characterized by white spots on the root part of the plant;
2. Soft bacterial rot - the appearance of soft brown spots on peppers;
3. Gray rot - gray spots develop on the fruit.

If watering in the greenhouse is infrequent, then the lower shoots do not need to be removed. They will be able to retain moisture. If one of the diseases is detected, it is not necessary to form bushes. The plant will weaken even more and will not be able to develop normally.

Video of the formation of pepper in the greenhouse: the sequence of the process

A healthy plant can begin to form when it reaches a height of 15 cm. At this time, you need to get rid of the upper growth points. As a result, 3-4 main shoots will remain on each bush.

The first stepson will help:

• Form a bush;
• Prevent excess growth;
• Increase branching.

The formation of stems depends on the planting pattern and growing time. The density should be moderate. If you make too plentiful planting, then the possibility of infection of plants with diseases will increase, their productivity and quality will decrease. That is why it is necessary to periodically trim unnecessary parts.

Stepping consists of several stages. First, the side parts of the plant are cut off, then the first bud is removed, the next step is to remove the bottom leaf, and finally, you need to pinch the main stem.

After the procedure, 9-12 leaves and 2-4 new shoots will appear on the crop. The strongest ones are selected from them. They will make up the skeleton of the plant. Weak shoots are pinched. Then the bushes are formed vertically, keeping a V-shape. When the selected shoots begin to sprout branches, you need to get stronger ones from the resulting branches. Weaker elements need to be pinned when leaves appear.

Often the bud is located on the main stem. Ovaries are formed on each branch. Side shoots and buds should be cut off. Each pepper needs 2 leaves to get all the nutrients. One is on the main stem, and the second is on the side of the plant.

An audit with the definition of excess sheets and shoots should be carried out regularly. These elements are cut from the side and below the branching point of the main stem. In greenhouse conditions, it is also necessary to get rid of the leaves on the main stem.

Indications for cutting leaves:

• Dryness;
• Infection with diseases;
• Depravity.

When the shoots grow, they should be tied up. This work must be done carefully, as the stems are quite brittle. To get a quick harvest, you will have to cut off the growing points on the main stem. This procedure must be done 50 days before the end of the growing season of the crop.

How to plant tall and short peppers in a greenhouse

The formation of pepper also depends on the selected variety. If you don’t plant vegetables, you can completely ruin the plants. That is why it is necessary to form plant bushes correctly and in a timely manner.

Scheme for pinching low-growing varieties:

1. First, the top of the plant is cut off, and a small bush with side shoots is obtained;
2. The shoots are examined and the strongest options are selected;
3. Monitor the development of the lower foliage and cut it off if necessary.

Pepper loves a dense planting, but in moderation. He prefers to be in contact with his neighbors. Therefore, with a rare planting, the formation of bushes is not necessary, since sometimes it turns out to be completely meaningless.

Certain varieties do not need shaping. This is indicated on the packaging when purchasing seeds.

To remove excess elements, plant growth should be 30-35 cm. This is a period of active development and strengthening of the culture. You can cut the shoots when the pepper has at least 10 leaves and there is the first ovary.

Tall varieties must be formed into 2-3 stems. For this purpose, the strongest shoots that have the first flowering and crown connection are selected. The ovaries on young vegetables should be cut off immediately, since all the vital forces and nutrients will be spent on the development of the ovary. After cutting it, the pepper will begin to branch.

Peculiarities of pinching tall varieties:

1. It is necessary to periodically inspect plants;
2. The strongest stepson does not need to be touched;
3. The rest of the stepchildren need to be removed in time;
4. For each new fork, it is necessary to pinch;
5. For tall peppers, a garter should be made;
6. 30 days before the end of the growing season, all shoots are removed.

To remove stepchildren, you need to take only sharp tools. They need to be disinfected after working with each plant. These precautions are necessary to avoid transferring diseases from one bush to another. If this is done, then you can lose the entire crop.

Pasynkovanie tall crops - this is an important event. But for good growth and development of the culture, peppers need to be tied up. It is also important to remember that the plant should be regularly twisted around the support.

The nuances of forming peppers in a polycarbonate greenhouse

A polycarbonate greenhouse creates the most comfortable microclimate parameters for the plant. Humidity and temperature are increased for rapid ripening of fruits. At the same time, it is important to observe a certain wind speed in the greenhouse in order to prevent the development of a variety of rot.

To ensure that each bush is well ventilated, the lower part of the plant must be cut off. This part can be left only in case of poor watering. Then she will be able to hold water.

Nuances of greenhouse formation of bushes:

1. There is no need to touch disease-infected bushes. They may not survive the vaccination and will become even more weakened.
2. Peppers love contact with their relatives. If planting is sparse, then there is no need to form bushes.
3. The first blooms of peppers must be removed. This is done in order to achieve maximum crop yield. If you need to collect seeds, you will have to leave the first flowering. This will result in yield losses.
4. Twice a week it is necessary to inspect the peppers and remove excess elements between the main stem and the root.
5. It is necessary to monitor the emergence of possible plant diseases. If any are found, then all elements of the culture should be immediately removed and burned outside the greenhouse.
6. When removing the stepsons, you must leave the bottom sheet. It provides nutrition to the ovaries.
7. The ovary should receive enough sunlight. To do this, cut off the foliage that obscures it.

All parts that are cut from the plant must be taken out of the greenhouse. If they are diseased, they will need to be burned. It is important to constantly monitor the condition of the pepper for a good yield.

Pepper care and bush formation in the greenhouse

Pepper is a rather fragile crop, so all work with it must be carried out with extreme care. This rule applies to any variety of crop. Caring for peppers has its own characteristics and nuances that every summer resident should become familiar with.

Things to consider when caring for peppers:

• Abundant watering;
• Moderate feeding;
• Good illumination of each leaf;
• Tying depends on the variety.

The plant needs regular and abundant watering. It should be watered more often than tomatoes. For rapid growth, you need to pour even more water into one bush.

Optimal watering is determined by moist soil with a depth of 30 cm.

Feeding peppers is quite a risky undertaking. If you overdo it with any element, you can lose the plant. This applies to both chemicals and organics.

The sensitivity of pepper to the absence of water is quite noticeable. If it is deficient, the fruits will simply stop developing, and the taste will sharply decrease. Mulch between rows to retain moisture. It is also worth noting that pepper is quite a thermophilic culture.

Pepper tying is determined by the variety. This procedure should be carried out only with tall plants. Indeterminate varieties and hybrids need a mandatory garter.

Formation of pepper in a greenhouse (video)

Growing pepper in a greenhouse has its own nuances. They relate to the general care of the culture and the need to pinch plants. The formation of bushes includes the removal of all unnecessary elements.