Mitlider beds: step by step instructions. The Mittlider Method: Everything You Need to Know About Narrow and Wide Beds Growing Vegetables in Narrow Beds

Carrots are a frost-resistant crop that easily tolerates light frosts. But it is extremely difficult to achieve even large root crops if:

• at the beginning of the growing season, carrots lack moisture;
• from the second half of the growing season, on the contrary, receives excessive watering;
• the soil on the site is acidic;
• the soil is not well processed, contains foreign inclusions and clods.

How to grow large carrots if the summer cottage is located in a swampy area or the soil under the garden is rocky?

The Mitlider method can be a good help in this situation, and in the case of poor acidic soils.

Arrangement of beds for carrots according to Mitlider

The agricultural technique of growing carrots according to this method differs little from the cultivation of other vegetable crops, but there are still some features.

Carrots by Mitlider in containers

The practice of Russian summer residents has shown that it is much more convenient to make a strong artificial fence from slate, cement boards or boards, and also to raise the beds not by 10 cm, as Mitlider advises, but much higher. For carrots, the purpose of which is to obtain large root crops, the height of such boxes without a bottom should be at least 20 cm.

Tanks, set on a flat, weed-free area, are filled with a light, loose soil mixture. Mittlider suggests using sawdust and sand in a ratio of 3:1 in the simplest case, or filling boxes with fertilized soil. The scheme for planting carrots according to Mitlider in this case is preserved. When the crop is harvested, the soil is only replenished before the next season.

This approach seriously saves time for planting maintenance, reduces the consumption of fertilizers and irrigation water. The main labor costs fall on the first year, when the garden is just being organized.

Features of sowing and fertilizing carrots

On well-leveled beds 45 cm wide, carrots are sown in two rows. .

Moreover, swollen seeds can be mixed with sand or sawdust to facilitate work, and then sown in shallow furrows along the sides. Since the planting depth of carrots is small, the seeds can be washed out and buried in the soil when watered. To prevent this from happening, the soil surface is covered with burlap or loose non-woven material.

With early sowing, a narrow bed with high slate sides or strong boxes is easy to cover using:

• semicircular arcs 150 cm long made of steel wire;
• covering material or film 120 cm wide.

Taking advantage of the advantages of high narrow ridges, an early harvest of carrots can be obtained not only in the middle lane, but also much to the north.

Selection of carrot varieties for narrow ridges

For growing according to the Mitlider method, numerous varieties with a medium length root crop are suitable. These include the Nantes carrot, in the photo of which an even, rounded root crop of 20 cm in length is clearly visible. Such carrots not only have high taste qualities, but also give high yields.

Good results are obtained by the variety "Beauty of Autumn". One of the most popular varieties among summer residents is Losinoostrovskaya 13 carrots, according to reviews, it also deserves the attention of gardeners studying the possibilities of the Mitlider method when growing this crop.

From a high bed 4.5 meters long, with sufficient watering and top dressing, you can get up to 40 kg of high-quality root crops.

Features of feeding carrots according to Mitlider

A week later, crops begin to fertilize. The amount of top dressing depends on the particular garden crop. For carrots, 4 or 5 fertilizations are provided for the entire growing season .

Traditionally, gardeners who adhere to this method use two types of fertilizers.

• The composition of the first mixture includes: nitrogen, phosphorus, magnesium, molybdenum and potassium. 60 grams of fertilizer is used per meter of ridge for weekly top dressing. For acidic soils, lime is added to the mixture, and for alkaline soils, calcium sulfate is added.
• As the second mixture used before sowing, you can use the complex fertilizer ROST-2. If the site is dominated by light soils with a high content of sand and sandy loam, 100 grams of this fertilizer will be required per meter of beds. For dense, heavy soils, fertilizer consumption should be doubled.

Jacob Mitlider put a lot of emphasis in his method on the regular application of large quantities. Russian gardeners, who asked themselves the question: “How to grow large carrots?”, During the study of the American experience, they came to the conclusion that the thoughtless use of chemicals and all kinds of additives negatively affects both the taste of carrots and their shelf life.

Therefore, mineral supplements are sometimes replaced by organic ones, and infusions of green grass, compost, manure, ash and humus are added for planting. Good results are obtained by the use of potassium humate during the first feeding. For example, carrots "Losinoostrovskaya 13 » according to reviews, such care responds with a solid increase in yield.

Help in the care of plantings are weeds appearing in the aisles. After mowing, green waste goes to.

Vegetable growing according to Mitlider - video

1. Russian analogue of the American method - narrow ridges

Some gardeners write that according to Mitlider, the main thing is fertilizer. Nonsense! I fundamentally disagree. So say those who have never seen narrow ridges.

The main thing in the Mitlider method is the layout of the garden, planning plantings and caring for them. And that's it! We have long ago abandoned Mitlider's mixtures No. 1 and No. 2 and replaced them with a green infusion of grass fertilizers.

But the narrow ridges are super, everything is in plain sight here, and you can immediately see where intervention is necessary, and where it is useless. Care, in this way, as everyone who has tried it writes, is simplified. Some critics of the method argue that the Mitlider requires abundant watering.

However, if you look at the lunar calendar, everything becomes clear: there are very few days recommended for watering, and more days on which watering is simply harmful to the roots.

And depending on the crop, irrigation is needed by sprinkling, or only at the root, if the weather is dry, not hot.

Application of the Mitlider method with amendments for Russia

We have been growing vegetables on narrow beds since 2001. It started like this.

One summer, a friend of my son's visited us. He told about growing vegetables on narrow ridges by his parents in the village, and the next time he brought us a book, which described in detail the application of the Mitlider method in Russia. And we decided to try.

When mastering the method in practice, they made their own changes. In particular, with a row width of 45 cm, the aisles were also initially made 45 cm each - they considered that this was enough. But in the last two years, for cabbage, beans, cucumbers, tomatoes of the De Barao variety, the row spacing was increased to 65 cm. For other vegetables, 45 were left.

“One line” we plant strawberries, cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. "Two-line" - onions, carrots, celery, parsnips, beets, dill, radishes, turnips, radishes, beans, peas.

One barrel of green manure is enough for the whole season for 30 beds 15 m long, as well as for fruit trees and flowers.

We plant 4 beds (30 m long) of cabbage, strawberries, turnips, tomatoes (including De Barao). We allocate two beds for cucumbers, eggplants, carrots, beans. One bed - under the root celery, black onion for sets, as well as dill, sweet pepper, winter garlic. We plant everything else on reserve beds.

I work the aisles once a week with a hoe, acting like a flat cutter. I remove the plant residues from the aisles and use them as mulch.

In 2011, after planting seedlings in open ground, I used (potassium humate) in the first four weeks. I confirm: this allows you to increase the yield by 1.5 times and get vegetables of a truly “Russian size”.

I process the ridges in the spring only by loosening when sowing or planting. In the autumn - I just make out the ridges with a hoe and close them with compost (3 buckets for each bed) until spring.

Narrow ridges - the result

From our own experience since 2001, we have been convinced that the narrow-bed method is the best of all for growing vegetables, also due to the low labor intensity and ease of weed control. Therefore, I advise everyone who has not yet switched to narrow ridges to do so, and the sooner it is, the sooner you will be convinced of their advantages for growing vegetables.

Narrow ridges allow you to grow vegetables with the lowest labor costs, which is especially important for the elderly and pensioners. In addition, on narrow ridges it is easy to distribute how much they need to be allocated for certain vegetables based on the results of the past season.

V.I. Kupriyanov

2. Why the Mitlider method does not take root well in Russia

Not everyone can afford

Considering that we got our 4-5 acres for growing vegetables in inconvenient areas (who got the swamp, who got the sand, hillock), it is clear that not every plot is suitable for this technology. After all, the author of the method emphasizes that success in providing the family with high-grade vegetables is guaranteed only if all elements of the technology are strictly observed. that is:

The site excludes swamps and lowlands where stagnant water is possible. It should be horizontal, without slopes.

Lighting should be good. When shaded, the yield decreases by 3-4 times. Vegetables will be nitrate, poorly preserved.

Watering is necessary abundant in order to completely dissolve the mineral fertilizers for plant nutrition and so that a surface crust does not form. Loosening is unacceptable, since the roots of plants are superficial and are located in the fertilizer dissolution zone. In the hot period, you need to water almost daily, spending on 1 running. m 5-10 liters of water.

Installing an irrigation system is not easy and not cheap, creating beds is not easy, and preparing balanced pre-plant fertilizers No. 1 and No. 2 is also very costly.

I will give an example from the book by T.Yu. Ugarova. The amount of fertilizer used in one summer: in a garden with an area of ​​1.7 acres for mixture No. 1 (lime with boric acid) -35 kg, and for mixture No. 2 (more difficult: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) - 46.5 kg. If 1 kg of suite lime is about 25 rubles, and 1 kg of “mineral water” is 55-65 rubles, then it’s easy to calculate what it will cost.

Moreover, in the process of vegetation of plants, additional fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is necessary.

And what about nitrates? It is clear that with a properly maintained technology, vegetables self-purify themselves through photosynthesis. What if the site is poorly lit, watering is insufficient, there is not enough molybdenum? We want to eat environmentally friendly, healthy products. Therefore, I prefer to use mineral fertilizers as little as possible.

For the past three years I have been growing potatoes in the garden. Breaking the basics narrow bed method”, since my beds are wider and the aisles are narrower.

However, I consider this method less time-consuming, more productive. At the same time, the furrows are well lit and ventilated, the bushes get sick less. Moving along the aisles, it is easier to inspect them, water them, feed them, pick flowers, etc. The aisles are not trampled.

Although the planting area decreased due to the passages, I did not notice any yield loss. As before, from an area of ​​​​1.5 acres I take off my 5 bags of selected and tasty potatoes. Small has become smaller.

On this site I plant about 550 potatoes the size of a chicken egg. When planting and top dressing, I use humus, ash, herbal infusions. To avoid soil depletion, I add 2-3 kg of double superphosphate and potassium sulphate to 1 weave.

To increase soil fertility and reduce weeds, I plant potatoes (rye, mustard, phacelia) after harvesting. Before winter, I don’t dig up the beds - the snow is better kept on them. During this time, the leaves will rot or be processed by worms. I rake the hard stems remaining after the winter with a rake. The soil on the beds is not clogged, there are few weeds. You can start laying out the beds and aisles.

Garden "highway"

The main concrete path is laid in the middle of the site. To the left, perpendicular to the path, I mark out 7 double beds, and to the right of it - another 5 double beds. The width of each bed is 1 m 35 cm.

The width of the aisles is 45 cm. I don’t dig up the aisles: I walk along them. I keep them clean with a flat cutter (acting like a scraper). So: the plot is flat, without visible weeds. First, I measure a passage 45 cm wide. Perpendicular to the concrete path for the length of the bed, I pull the string on pegs and measure a bed 1 m 35 cm wide from it. Behind it is a passage again. I plant two rows of tubers in the garden (Fig. a).

At 35 cm to the right of the left passage with a ketmen along the entire length of the bed, I make a groove to a depth of 10-15 cm.

If the soil in the garden is not so pliable, I loosen it with a ketmen or chopper. A groove can also be dug for half a bayonet, throwing the earth to the right to the place of the future second groove. Sprouted tubers are laid out in advance along the groove with sprouts up at a distance of 30 cm from each other.

I sprinkle each tuber with a large handful of humus and half a handful of ash. Walking along the aisles, I level the groove flush on both sides with a rake. At a distance of 65 cm from the first groove, I make a second one.

I lay out the tubers in it and act, as in the first case. Next, I level the bed along the entire length. I leave a passage of 45 cm and start making a second bed. In the same sequence I form all 7 beds. The earth on the beds is loose, absorbs moisture well and warms up. With the formation of a crust and for the destruction of weed seedlings, I carry out light harrowing.

Depending on the variety, sprouts appear together. They have enough moisture and warmth. Just do not plant in cold ground - growth will be delayed. Potatoes will "stub out", and some will not sprout at all.

I usually plant on May 8-17 (when a leaf is about the size of a ten-kopeck piece on a birch tree). I spend the first hilling when the height of the sprouts is 12-15 cm. Between the sprouts for top dressing, I lightly scatter mineral fertilizer for potatoes. I lightly hill two rows at once so that part of the land from the row spacing remains for the second hilling (Fig. b).

I spend the second hilling before closing the tops. The height of the bushes is 20-30 cm. I spud immediately after rain or good watering. To make it easier, I drag ketmen between the rows. It remains only the loosened earth with a chopper

rake up to the bushes to form high furrows. I water the furrows. I try to avoid the formation of a crust in them. Again I drag the ketmen along the sides of the rows with 5-tooth rakes.

Before harvesting, I cut the tops about 10 days in advance. Digging with flat garden pitchforks. I separate the bulk of the tubers from the tops, then I “shake” the tubers remaining in the ground through the teeth of the fork. After such cleaning, it is not necessary to dig up the ground before winter. I level the bed with a rake and immediately sow mustard. During harvesting, if the weather is fine, I sort the tubers, laying them out along the aisles. Here they are better ventilated, dry. The flaws are immediately visible. From healthy and productive bushes I select tubers for seeds. I leave the seed material at the dacha for landscaping until the end of September. How to prepare tubers for planting is a special conversation.

Vegetable grower's arsenal

It only remains for me to name some of my favorite varieties of potatoes. They have time to ripen in the Vladimir region, they are fruitful and, most importantly, delicious. For a long time I have tried about 70 varieties. Now I have settled on the early varieties Bullfinch, Antonina, Pushkinets; mid-early - Kolobok; mid-season - Blueberry, Lugovskoy, Treasury. I do not plant late varieties, although they are more productive and tasty. However, late harvesting does not allow harvesting tubers in good weather (dry) and sowing and growing green manure on time. For those who work the soil by hand, it is important to have a good and reliable tool.

For deep loosening, getting grooves and when hilling, I use ketmen (they are sold in a set - 3 pcs., This is the smallest).

Three-arm chopper - remade from the old one. Material: stainless steel 2-2.5 mm thick. Previously, it was necessary to constantly sharpen. It is light, penetrates well into the soil and, most importantly, does not break off roots and stolons during hilling. It is easy to loosen the soil (and even under the bushes).

: Reviews of narrow beds -...: GROWING EARLY Zucchini IN MOBILE ...

The Mitlider method is a popular vegetable growing method in our country. Thanks to him, you can get a good harvest without putting a lot of effort.

Agriculture has firmly entered our lives through dachas and vegetable gardens. You always want to grow something of your own, but the harvest is far from always plentiful, and plants often get sick and suffer from various pests. Then the Mitlider scheme comes to the rescue, which solves almost all the problems of gardeners. You can learn how the Mitlider method works and how to apply it by reading the implementation of the method.

Dr. D. Mitlider has been studying diseases and methods of caring for plants, in particular vegetables, for a long time. Conducting various experiments gave its results: Mitlider developed a unique scheme for planting crops in the garden, which allowed gardeners to get a bountiful harvest in any weather, climate, seasonality, etc.

This wonderful method consists of the following:

1. Before planting, it is necessary to create a sowing scheme that will provide future bushes with maximum illumination.
2. To retain water, you need to form small walls from the ground. On narrow beds, seedlings are planted in 2 rows. You need to follow the characteristics of the planted plant.
3. Be sure to properly feed the soil and seedlings. Fertilizers are placed 10 cm from the plant to avoid root burns.
4. Rainwater is not used for irrigation. Saplings are lightly sprayed so that rot does not appear on the roots.
5. You should know the timing of planting each plant, take into account the climate and frost.

Advantages and disadvantages of the method

Not all sites are suitable for the Mittlider method. Planting according to this method is unsuitable for peat soils, lowlands, northern slopes. For the Russian climate, it is necessary to use fertilizers frequently to make the soil fertile. Light plays an important role, the beds must be provided with plenty of light. Also, do not forget about the correct and abundant watering.

Wide beds make them easy to water, harvest and control pests. Wide beds allow you to immediately detect any plant diseases, get rid of weeds, so the Mitlider method is really convenient and effective.

In general, it can be noted that the Mittlider method has great advantages. Regardless of the condition of the soil, it allows you to get a good harvest, suitable for use in greenhouses and outdoor gardens. During the growth of crops, water is saved, the penetration of slugs and other pests is prevented, due to the wide arrangement of the beds. The Mitlider garden allows you to improve plant growth, health and productivity.

How to land on a Mitlider

The Mitlider method implies an average bed length of about 9 m, a width of about 50 cm, passages are about 1 m. A sanitary zone must be created along the fence. You should not make passages smaller than the specified one, otherwise the plants will cast a shadow on each other, thereby slowing down their growth. In any case, it is worth considering the size of the site and other conditions, but in general it is quite possible to land on the Mitlider.

It is worth considering that the light should fall on the beds evenly throughout the day. Therefore, it is necessary to create passages so that the shadows of the plants do not fall on each other.

The dimensions of the passages can be narrowed by a few centimeters to provide the plants with the right light.

In this case, the bushes should not dry out. The sun's rays should fall evenly and not burn the plants. You should study what kind of lighting is needed for a particular species, for example, tomatoes are best grown in boxes, planting them in one row. Zucchini, pumpkins, watermelons and others require the classic Mitlider garden scheme.

Instead of conventional mineral fertilizers, ash, compost, humus, etc. are often used. It is worth remembering that it is better not to use fertilizers once again than to overdo it and this will only harm the plant.

Far from all regions of Russia, it is possible to carry out frequent and abundant watering with the correct incidence of light, therefore, it is necessary to take into account the soil, climate and the fact that each plant requires a certain watering regimen.

For a garden with a slope, it is necessary to use boxes-beds. For the most accurate planting, it is best to draw up a garden plan.

Soil preparation must be done immediately before planting to eliminate the appearance of a large number of weeds. Weeds are removed with a hoe, plants can be used for subsequent fertilization of the soil.

Mitlider method for tomatoes (video)

Fertilizers and bed boxes

Ridge boxes can be made independently from wood and other materials. These frames do not have a bottom, they must be filled with something and used in cases where ordinary beds cannot be created using the Mitlider method.

You can fill the ridge boxes before planting seedlings with artificial soil - in no case can you use natural soil. You can make a substrate from small sawdust, sand, peat, foam, pumice, pine bark.

Planting according to the Mitlider method involves the use of special mixtures of fertilizers.

Before planting, a lime fertilizer of boron and calcium is used. For clay and peat soils, it is required to use about 200 g of fertilizer, for other types - 100 g.

For top dressing, 50 g of mineral mixtures of potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen, etc. are used. Various organic fertilizers can be applied. Planting according to the Mitlider does not prohibit the use of manure humus as an organic fertilizer. If compost is used, then it must be completely rotted, otherwise weed seeds and various microbes will get into the soil, which can become the causative agents of any diseases.

The Mitlider method has a fair number of advantages without being expensive.

Of course, it is not suitable for absolutely any soil, but using this planting method, you can significantly increase the yield on clay and peat soils. Therefore, you can be sure that the Mitlider method is quite feasible and effective on the territory of Russia.

Gallery: Mitlider method (15 photos)

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Few people have heard of the method of gardening in narrow beds - but not everyone decides to try it. Indeed, visually, such a garden seems unprofitable and strange, although the crop harvested from it pleasantly surprises both in quantity and quality. Therefore, if you decide to find out how to equip a garden according to Mitlider, this article is for you - only in it we will pay more attention not to trifles (you can read the details in the doctor's books), but to what mistakes it is important to avoid and why many refuse this method, without understanding it.

In short, the whole secret of the rapid and rich growth of plants according to the Mitlider is that all their roots are extended to the inter-bed groove, where we pour fertilizer. They do not penetrate deep into the soil or in breadth, and therefore quickly feed and feed on moisture. Many who have already tried this method talk about how they shock their neighbors with the harvest - and those who plant 70% more and collect three times less at the same time are only surprised.

And the main advantage of the Mitlider method is that it is possible to grow in this way even in the desert - which the doctor himself successfully proved, working for some time in Africa.

How did the mitlider technology originate?

The fact is that Jacob Mitlider inherited agriculture from his parents - but he noticed that a huge amount of mineral fertilizers is carried into the ground, and all for the sake of the harvest with subsequent sale. Yes, vegetables are heroic at the same time - but the taste and quality suffer greatly, not to mention the danger to health. Indeed, until now, those same Dutch tomatoes are just a bar of soap to the taste, and many Europeans and Americans, having tried ordinary vegetables from the Russian market, are delighted! But back in the days of the USSR, collective farms used a thoughtlessly large amount of fertilizers - and they didn’t want to hear about any organic matter at that time, they had neither the strength nor the desire for it. But, of course, we were still far from foreign countries. That is why Mitlider decided for himself: either he radically changes this entire system, or he will not be engaged in parenting.

And for the next 15 years, the doctor was responsible for the production of seedlings in Southern California. He developed his methods of growing and airlifting many live plants for retail sale. Further - cooperation with Loma Linda University in the same place, where he taught his farming technologies, simultaneously engaging in practical activities. Since 1964, the innovator has already become famous on a global scale, teaching and consulting in many countries of the world, even in the Soviet Union. Jacob Mitlider has written many books and received 11 US patents - so maybe you should try this method?

We break the beds according to the Mitlider - it's easy!

The garden according to Mitlider can be of two options - using the technology of narrow ridges and using special boxes, for which there are also their own parameters.

• Step 1. First of all, on the site, you will make Mitlider ridges, everything needs to be cleared of weeds. To do this, select the rhizome of perennials, while digging the soil with ordinary garden pitchforks.
• Step 2 Then carefully align everything, resulting in a completely flat area.
• Step 3 We mark the beds. It is convenient to do this with a special marker rail, 1.35 m long, because we have a passage of 90 cm, and beds - 45 cm.
• Step 4 Drive in the corner pegs from the end of the site and stretch the cord between them. Do it this way: placing a marker on the first beaten peg, hammer in the rest. The same thing - from the other end of the beds. After that - the cord itself.

Mittlider's Narrow Bed Method is an amazing first-year harvest of organic vegetables. And working in such a garden is much easier - because the land is now cultivated less. Of course, here you will have to follow the technology and mix it correctly, water it every day and monitor the horizontality of the beds. But this is mental work, not physical.

How to calculate and apply mineral fertilizers?

Particular attention in the Mitlider method is given to plant nutrition. The fact is that in our body there are only 2 grams of iron, but without it, the blood would not be able to carry oxygen. The same applies to horticulture: trace elements are an essential component of fertilizers.

And fertilizers according to the Mitlider method should be applied to the beds as follows:

1. Mix No. 1, 100 UAH per linear meter of beds.
2. Mix No. 2, 50 UAH for each same meter.

Hint: it is much cheaper to purchase the necessary mixtures and elements in online stores than in specialized kiosks. If it is difficult to find this in your city, take Florist Micro - it is easy to order it by mail.

Fertilizers should be spread evenly over the entire surface of the beds. When digging, focus on mixing, and not on the traditional "turning". Do everything slowly, if there is also a cultivator available, use it.

The main mistakes of beginner "mitliders"

So why are many already disappointed in this method, and even on the Internet you can hear a lot of unflattering reviews? There are reasons for this. And the most important of them is that citizens who are used to doing “at random” do not even comply with the elementary requirements of agricultural technology:

Mistake #1. Small amount of watering

If the beds are watered only once a week, then the applied fertilizers simply do not dissolve - and therefore are not used by plants. And even worse: accumulating between the beds, they soon reach a dangerous concentration and even begin to destroy the crop. That is why, if water is tight in your area, and you cannot keep the soil surface constantly wet, then it is better to refuse this method. Because you need to water every day, in rare cases - every other day.

Why is it important to keep the soil surface moist at all times? The fact is that with such a structure of the beds, the roots of the plants are located precisely in the thin upper layer, which is why it is not recommended to loosen it. And the applied fertilizers do not dissolve in one day.

Mistake #2. Changes in the composition and quantity of mineral mixtures

Further, with the wrong choice of mixture, you can also be left without a crop. Have you checked the acidity of your soil on site? There is a whole article about this on our portal. And just imagine: at the existing high pH level, you add mixture No. 1 to your beds, and it is based on limestone flour. As a result, alkalization will occur, and many nutrients will be inaccessible to plants. A whole bunch of deficiencies - what kind of tomatoes are there ... By the way, in this situation, take mixture No. 1 only on the basis of gypsum. On acidic soils - chalk or limestone (or dolomite) flour.

One more thing: you forgot something, you bought something more - everything will work for the plants? No matter how. It is only a dog that, when saturated, can leave the excess in the plate, and the plants will take everything. And, if some element turned out to be more than necessary, the crop will “burn out”. Feel the lack? Get sick. For example, if you do not look for the mysterious necessary element "Molybdenum", but decide to do with what you have found, the plants will be left without the "gastric juice" that helps them "digest" everything. The result is a miserable harvest with nitrate vegetables, from which later myths about the unreliability of the foreign method appear.

And the biggest mistake is to take “any” fertilizers, often released in general in cellars. Buy ready-made mixtures of Mitlider - it's very convenient!

Mistake #3. Violation of aisle width rules

Jacob Mitlider has repeatedly emphasized that the beds should be perfectly horizontal - this is not an innovation and does not come. The fact is, even with a very slight slope, most of the water immediately flows into one of the parts of the garden, simultaneously washing off fertilizers. As a result, where is the lack of nutrition and overdriedness of the soil, and where is the overabundance of both. And it's bad for all plants at once. And with all this, many summer residents manage to make attempts to adapt the Mitlider method on the slopes, wondering why solar vegetarians work this way, but the “bourgeois method” does not? If you have such a site, break it into parts and align each of them.

And you need to level not just by eye - but using the building level and an even long bar. The bed should be flat, like the surface of the table.

Mistake #4. Uneven soil fertilization

If the fertilizer is scattered all over the bed somehow, and then dug up with a shovel, then it will not be distributed over the entire 20th layer of soil, but will be concentrated at separate points. Some plants will have an excess of it, some will have a deficiency, and the roots of some will not reach it at all.

Experts notice that many today rush to extremes - if the Mitlider method did not fit, then - only organic! Like, enough chemistry in the store. And not everyone at the same time knows that in fact the author of the method did not go from organic to mineral fertilizers, but from a very large amount of them to a smaller and dosed one.

Mistake #5. Mitlider in Russian?

Many gardeners, who have assessed the quality of the vegetables obtained in a mitlider way, are trying to adapt it a little. So, they get mixture No. 2 of Ugarova, where only boron and molybdenum, they say, the rest of the plants will receive from the soil. But over the years, in such areas there is a deficiency of zinc, manganese and iron. But Mitlider's ready-made mixtures already contain all the necessary trace elements.

By the way, never listen to the advice to make beds not 90 cm, but 70 - you can only take risks with garlic, onions and herbs. Because these are low-growing plants that have enough light. Otherwise, it is so easy to break the technology and get a completely different crop than you expected.

The thing is that the Mitlider method is not a combination of some individual techniques or requirements, it is a whole system in which everything is painted to the smallest detail: disease and weed control, lighting, working with soil, fertilizer and watering. It's like multiple factors that result in a total number if one of them is zero, i.e. is not used, then the overall value will also be lost. Such is the mathematics. Therefore, since you are taking on this unusual technology, follow it to the end, even in small things, and an amazing result will not keep you waiting!