Gooseberries are covered with a white coating, what should you do? How to get rid of white plaque on gooseberries. Processing secrets: how to spray gooseberries to remove white plaque. How to spray gooseberries

Gooseberries often grow on their own, deprived of attention, and even manage to produce a harvest regularly. But even more often, left unattended, it survives the attack of various insect pests and diseases that can significantly harm the bush or even destroy it completely. Therefore, the gardener needs not only to care for gooseberries, but also to know all the problems in person, as well as ways to get rid of them.

Main problems and diseases of gooseberries

Having discovered fading leaves or damaged shoots on a gooseberry bush, the gardener begins to thoughtfully scratch his head in search of the cause of the problem. Without its exact definition, it is hardly possible to help the plant, so the more we know about gooseberries and the characteristics of its cultivation, the better.

First you need to find out what causes the trouble. Conventionally, they can be divided into three groups:

1. Negligence of the gardener - this includes cases of improper care of gooseberries - an error when planting a bush, when applying fertilizers, etc.
2. The invasion of insect pests most often does not depend on humans, but in order to prevent the appearance of unexpected guests, prevention can be carried out.
3. Defeat by a disease may also not depend on the gardener, and in rare situations one can only throw up one’s hands and admit one’s powerlessness. Fortunately, most people are able to cope with the misfortune that arises and save the gooseberry and its harvest.

Sometimes everything is interconnected - neglect of a plant can cause the appearance of insect pests, which in turn bring dangerous diseases.

Among the mistakes made by summer residents when caring for gooseberries are the wrong choice of planting site (in the shade or with close groundwater), lack of regular weeding, application of insufficient fertilizers or excess mineral fertilizers, and thickening of plantings.

Diseases affecting gooseberries:

• powdery mildew;
• anthracnose;
• white spot (septoria);
• glass rust and mosaic.

Pests attacking gooseberries:

• spider mite;
• gooseberry sawfly;
• fire;
• shoot aphid;
• moth;
• currant gall midge;
• goldfish;
• glass

Bugs, diseases, pests and problem solving

Why gooseberries don’t grow or grow poorly

Usually, poor development of gooseberries is associated with errors in caring for them. The choice of location plays an important role here. For example, by planting gooseberries in an area with high groundwater (less than a meter to the surface), we risk being left without a good harvest, or even destroying the bush. After all, excess moisture in combination with cold fogs inherent in such areas is a factor inhibiting the development of the plant. The same can be said about a place in the shade: the leaves in such a sunless area grow small, as do the few berries.

Solution: gooseberries love a sunny area with groundwater below one meter. Provide him with these conditions, and the berry plant’s immunity will increase significantly.

Insufficient weeding or its absence can lead to overgrowing of the area around the gooseberries. A thick grassy wall will not only retain moisture, but will also deprive the bush of much-needed beneficial and nutritious elements. The result is stunted cultural growth. The same thing is observed when planting vegetables between bushes - this should not be done under any circumstances.

Weeds take away useful substances from gooseberries, so they must be constantly weeded out

Solution: very simple - periodically pull out all the weeds around the gooseberry so that all the fertilizers applied go to the berry and no one else.

Errors during landing are a fairly common phenomenon. For example, insufficient depth of the root collar (recommended depth is 6-7 cm). At the same time, very thin and weak shoots begin to grow, which cannot form the basis of the future bush. It is clear that this will not give him the opportunity to fully develop.

When planting, the root collar of gooseberries needs to be buried 6-7 cm to ensure strong root shoots.

Solution: proper deepening of the root collar promotes the development of full-fledged shoots, from which, during pruning, you can select the best ones to create the skeleton of the bush.

Gooseberries also need to be fertilized correctly. Sometimes gardeners add too much mineral fertilizer or fresh manure. As a result, the plant gets burned at the roots and develops poorly.

Solution: replace fresh manure with rotted manure, and thoroughly mix the applied fertilizers with the soil. It is recommended to apply the following complex of fertilizers: 1.5-2 buckets of organic matter (the same manure or humus), 1 bucket of peat, 300 grams of ash, 200 grams of superphosphate, 100 grams of lime and 20 grams of potassium salt.

The bush does not bear fruit

The main reason for the lack of fruiting or a small number of berries is the lack of proper pruning. An unkempt bush begins to thicken, its middle no longer receives enough sunlight.

Annual pruning of gooseberries stimulates the growth of new shoots and rejuvenates the bush, strengthening its immunity

Solution: when pruning, it is worth considering that an adult bush should consist of 14-20 shoots of different ages. From the young growth, 4-5 branches are left every year. They gradually replace old branches (over 4-5 years old). If you prune annually, the bush will constantly rejuvenate and produce a stable harvest and bear fruit well.

It is important to water the berry garden properly to maintain a humidity level of 80% near the roots. It turns out that the ground should be constantly moistened, but not flooded. Watering is carried out until the berries accumulate sugar and begin to soften. Then the plant does not need water for some time.

Video: Proper pruning of gooseberries

Incorrect and inadequate feeding not only slows down the growth of the plant, but also reduces the yield. There are fewer berries and they become smaller.

Fertilizers should be used wisely, otherwise, instead of benefit, you can cause harm to the plant

Solution: in the spring, before flowering begins, add 100-150 grams of urea into the ground or dilute this amount in 10 liters of water. You can also successfully use chicken manure several times during the summer, which is used as follows: one part of it is mixed with four parts of water and left for 3-4 days. Then the resulting mixture is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 and a solution is obtained that can be used to water the gooseberries after flowering or harvesting. Watering occurs in the groove near the plant, but in no case under the bush itself.

The leaves are turning red

Redness of the leaves may be due to a lack of two microelements - iron and boron. In this case, the red color warns of a problem.

Solution: 15-20 grams of iron sulfate are diluted in 10 liters of water (instead of iron sulfate, iron chelate can be used in the amount of 10 grams per 10 l) and foliar feeding (spraying) of the plant is carried out. This method allows you to quickly deliver the missing microelements to their destination, and after 3-5 days the redness should disappear.

It is much more difficult if, after turning red, the leaves begin to turn brown, then dry out and fall off. This phenomenon is associated with the presence of spider mites, which suck the juices from the leaf blades. In dry and hot weather this pest is most dangerous.

The spider mite is a small insect, but capable of sucking all the juice from the leaves and entangling them in a web

Solution: fill half a bucket of flowering wormwood with 10 liters of water and let it brew for a day. Then boil for half an hour and dilute the resulting solution with water in a 1:1 ratio, add 40 grams of soap.

Alternatively, you can use 400 grams of tobacco, filled with 10 liters of hot water. The mixture is left for two days and then 40 grams of soap are added to it.

Shoots or leaves dry out (leaves fall off)

Not only spider mites can cause leaves to dry out and fall off. No less dangerous is the gooseberry shoot aphid, which attacks young succulent shoots in entire colonies and begins to feed on the vital fluids of the plant. It is easy to detect accumulations of the pest - the leaves at the ends of the shoots begin to deform, curl, forming a dense lump, inside of which light green plaques are visible - these are aphids.

The ladybug is a natural enemy of shoot aphids, which can be successfully used when detecting a cluster of pests

Solution: since the removal of damaged leaves is possible only in the early stages of aphid infestation, it is almost never resorted to. It is much more effective to collect and plant ladybugs, a natural enemy of aphids, on the affected shoots. Considering the diligence of these beautiful insects, there is no doubt that after some time the aphid colony, if not completely disappearing, will be significantly reduced.

If you rely more on folk remedies and chemicals, then use a set of measures to combat aphids:

1. In early spring, the bushes are watered with hot water, and then during the period when the larvae appear, use the drug “Fufanon” (10 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water - 1-1.5 liters are required per bush) or “Iskra” (1 tablet per 10 liters of water - one bush requires 1.5-2 liters).
2. After the first procedures, we carry out the next ones in the summer. Use garlic tincture (200-300 g per 10 liters of water), which is thoroughly mixed and filtered. The finished solution is suitable for spraying.
3. Instead of this product or in addition to it, you can use 150-200 grams of onion peel, soaked in 10 liters of water and infused for 4-5 days. You can also use potato tops (1.2 kg) in the same amount of water, infused for 3-4 hours. Dry tops are used in an amount of 600-800 grams. Another option is 4 kg of crushed burdock leaves per 10 liters of water - leave for 2-3 days, strain and use for spraying.

Another pest that will cause shoots and leaves to dry out and become deformed is the currant gall midge. Despite the name, it pounces on both currants and gooseberries with equal desire.

Currant gall midge is a small mosquito that harms gooseberry shoots and leaves.

Solution: to begin with, it would be a good idea to prevent the pest from leaving for the winter - autumn pruning of damaged shoots, as well as burning leaves, will help with this. Digging up the ground under the bush and mulching the tree trunk circle with peat 6 cm thick will further reduce the number of the pest.

Before flowering, as well as after harvesting, in addition to the “Fufanon” already known to us, you can use karbofos (60 grams per 8 liters - 1-1.5 liters per bush). If you decide to spray during the ripening period of the berries, it is better to resort to folk remedies like tincture of the same wormwood or tomato tops - 4 kg of fresh or 400 grams of dry per bucket of water, leave for a day and add 40 grams of soap. It takes 1.5 - 2 liters of solution per bush.

And one more pest that can destroy (eat) up to half of all shoots - currant glass. It damages the gooseberry branches, which dry out and break over time.

Currant glass beetle is one of the main pests of gooseberry shoots; it looks like a small wasp

Solution: the first measure to protect and treat the bush will be sanitary pruning in the fall and spring. The cut branches must be burned. In May - June, the ground under the bush is loosened and treated with the following mixture: 300 g of ash, 1 tbsp. mustard and ground pepper and 200 grams of tobacco dust. The ingredients are thoroughly mixed and scattered 3-4 tablespoons for each bush. During the flight of butterflies (beginning of June), gooseberries are treated with infusions of dry mustard (20-30 g per 1 liter of water - brew for two days, strain and dilute in 10 liters of water) or celandine (4 kg of plants without roots are infused for 1.5 days in 10 liters of water). After harvesting, you can use karbofos.

Various diseases also contribute to leaf fall. For example, anthracnose. It manifests itself first in the form of small brown spots, which then spread across the leaf blades, and ultimately the leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off, with the exception of those at the tops of the shoots.

Brown spots with yellow leaves indicate developing anthracnose

Solution: since the causative agent of anthracnose is a fungus that overwinters on the leaves of the plant, the fallen part of them is collected and immediately burned to destroy the spores. This usually happens in the fall. But even in early spring, it is necessary to check for fallen leaves under the bush and, if found, burn them. We tear off the leaves affected by anthracnose, and spray the bush with a solution of copper sulfate (40 g per 10 l).

If the disease is in an advanced stage, use 1% Bordeaux mixture (100 grams of copper sulfate and 100-120 grams of quicklime per 10 liters of water). Spraying is carried out at least four times - before and after flowering, then 12-14 days later the third time and the fourth time after harvesting.

White spot or septoria appears as a large number of gray spots on the leaves. Later, fungal spores appear on the spots in the form of black dots. The leaves begin to curl, dry out and fall off. If measures are not taken in time, the bush will be left without leaves.

White spot (septoria) is easily distinguished by light spots on the leaves

Damaged leaves on gooseberries clearly indicate the presence of pests. It could be either a sawfly or a moth.

The gooseberry sawfly is a real disaster for the gardener. When attacking a plant, through the efforts of the entire colony, in a couple of days it can completely gnaw off all the leaves on the bushes so that only the veins remain. They hide in cocoons located in the ground in the berry patch area. In the spring, when young leaves bloom, butterflies fly out of the cocoons, lay eggs, and after 7-10 days the gooseberry is in great danger.

The gooseberry sawfly is capable of leaving only the main veins of the leaves in a couple of days

Solution: you should get rid of this harmful insect in the fall, digging up the ground under the bushes and destroying the larvae. In spring and summer, as soon as you see the larvae on the bush, shake them down, first spread a film on the ground, and destroy them immediately. Collect and destroy berries damaged by the sawfly immediately, otherwise the larvae will take advantage of the opportunity and go into the ground for the winter.

During the season, periodically spray with a solution of tomato tops, dry mustard or wood ash. If you already know the first two recipes, then it’s time to talk about the wood ash solution: 300 grams of sifted ash is poured with boiling water and boiled for half an hour, allowed to stand for a while, filtered and diluted with 10 liters of water, adding 40-50 grams of soap. This composition can be sprayed twice a month.

If the sawfly gnaws the leaves down to the veins, the moth leaves behind only petioles. It begins to pose a danger to the plant in April, when the larvae emerge from cocoons under fallen leaves. Their main food is buds and young leaves.

The moth can gnaw leaves down to the petioles

Solution: in the fall and early spring, fallen leaves are collected and burned, and the soil is dug up. Spraying with a solution of tobacco decoction or chamomile infusion. For the second remedy, during the flowering period of chamomile, its inflorescences and leaves are collected - 1 kg. This mass is poured with 10 liters of water at a temperature of 60-70 degrees. The container is covered with a lid and left for 12 hours, after which it is filtered and diluted three times, with 40 grams of soap added for every ten liters.

Chamomile can be planted along the edges of the plot, and then such useful raw materials will be at your fingertips. In addition to protecting against pests, it will attract beneficial pollinating insects.

If there is a lot of pest, in early spring and summer (no later than 20-30 days before harvesting) spraying with karbofos is carried out.

Berry fall

The sawfly can cause berries to fall off, since without leaves the gooseberry no longer develops normally. But besides him, there is another terrible enemy - the gooseberry moth. When the leaves bloom in the spring, butterflies fly out of their cocoons in the ground and lay eggs inside the blooming flowers. And within a week and a half, caterpillars are born, capable of gnawing at the existing ovaries in just a month. Berries damaged by larvae turn red long before ripening, then rot and crumble or remain hanging on the bush, entangled in cobwebs.

Gooseberry moth is a malicious pest that eats gooseberry ovaries

Solution: it is logical that in this case the ground needs to be dug up, destroying cocoons and larvae. In general, the set of measures to combat the moth is similar to that applied to the sawfly - the berries are collected and destroyed, and spraying is carried out with the same compounds. In addition to the techniques listed, there is another method that works well in practice.

In autumn or spring, when the snow has just melted, we tightly cover the tree trunk circle with roofing felt or other similar material. The butterflies will not be able to fly out and will die. We repeat the same technique next year.

Goblet rust is easily recognizable by the orange pads on the back of the sheet.

Solution: to avoid goblet rust, you need to buy gooseberries of those varieties that are resistant to this disease. When planting a bush, you need to choose places without stagnant water and places where sedge does not grow, which is an intermediate point for the spread of the fungus.

Plants damaged by goblet rust are recommended to be sprayed with 1% Bordeaux mixture three times - when the leaves bloom, after flowering and 8-12 days after the second spraying.

White coating/powdery mildew on berries and other parts of the bush, brown spots

Powdery mildew (also known as spheroteca) becomes a real disaster in areas, which causes significant damage not only to gooseberries, but also to other plants. Why is this happening?

The first signs of this disease can be seen after flowering - young shoots and leaves are covered with a white, loose coating, which is easily erased. Then the disease spreads to the ovaries and berries, spreads throughout the plant, and the coating turns from white to dark brown felt. Diseased shoots become bent, stop developing and dry out. The leaves curl and become brittle, and the berries also stop growing and crack, after which they fall off. Within just two or three seasons, an entire gooseberry bush may simply die if urgent measures are not taken.

In addition, the problem is that the fungal spores are easily carried by the wind and affect other plants. And there is no need to rely on high summer or low winter temperatures - the fungus overwinters well on fallen leaves and affected shoots and easily tolerates heat.

Powdery mildew manifests itself as a whitish felt on leaves and berries, and its spores are easily carried by the wind

Solution: a long-term fight against the disease is very important, lasting the entire season - from early spring to late autumn. Fortunately, the modern gardener has many good ways to deal with powdery mildew. Let's look at some of them:

1. Watering the bushes with hot water in early spring leads to the destruction of some of the spores.
2. It is necessary to treat the gooseberries before the buds open with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture (400-450 grams of quicklime, 300 grams of copper sulfate and 10 liters of water) or a solution of soda ash (50 grams per 10 liters with the addition of 40 grams of soap). They spray not only the bush, but also the ground around it.
3. At the same time, it is a good idea to add wood ash to the tree trunk circle, mixing it with soil, or mix it with water (300 g per 10 l).
4. The tomato is a very useful plant in the fight against powdery mildew; its stepsons can be used to make an infusion that is already known to us, and the stems can be used to cover the ground around the gooseberries for the winter.
5. The bacterial method of fight is an original and effective solution. A kilogram of hay dust or rotted hay is poured with three liters of water and left for three days. Then the resulting solution is brought to 10 liters with water. Spraying with this product is carried out in the evening in the absence of direct sunlight or in cloudy weather, since the bacteria in the solution die in the sun. But it is they who will provide us with an invaluable service by starting to eat the mycelium of powdery mildew. We carry out the treatment three times - before flowering, after it and before leaf fall.
6. In case of severe infection with powdery mildew, the garden is treated with Oxychom (20 grams per 10 liters of water), Fitosporin (15 ml per 10 liters of water) or Topaz (1 ampoule per 10 liters of water). The processing period is arranged in strict accordance with the instructions on the packaging.

Video: Gooseberry powdery mildew (spheroteca)

Other problems and how to deal with them + photos

In addition to the above-mentioned ailments and pests, there are two more misfortunes that need to be discussed in order to get a complete picture of all possible problems. We will talk about a mosaic of gooseberries and currant borers.

Gooseberry mosaic can be spread by insect pests such as aphids and herbivorous mites, as well as by using unsanitized tools used to trim infected bushes. The main distinguishing feature of the mosaic is the bright yellow pattern on the leaves along the main veins. A diseased bush stops growing, the yield decreases sharply, and the leaves grow small and wrinkled.

Mosaic is a viral disease and cannot be treated

Solution: it is impossible to cure a bush affected by mosaic; all that remains is to get rid of it (dig it up and burn it). All that remains is to apply preventive measures - purchase healthy seedlings and use the means listed above to protect against sucking insects.

The currant borer infects gooseberry shoots - it makes tunnels in them and overwinters there. In mid-June, the larvae emerging from the clutches begin to eat the branches, which is why the gooseberry bush begins to hurt, the yield drops, and the berries become small.

Solution: branches affected by the pest are cut out and burned, and the bush itself must be periodically pruned (remove damaged, diseased, and weak shoots). Also carefully monitor the quality of the seedlings you purchase.

Treatment measures for pests in autumn and spring

As you know, the best protection against any pests is prevention, and the idea of ​​linking these activities to any one specific season is erroneous. They can and should be carried out both in spring and autumn.

Growing a healthy gooseberry crop is not so difficult if you take care of the plant on time

Among the huge number of modern means of combating insect pests, it is not difficult to find what you need. But we must not forget the folk techniques that can increase the bush’s immunity, and therefore increase its chances for a healthy life.

For example, at the end of March - beginning of April, quickly water the bushes with a bucket of hot water (80 degrees) - the initial volume should be enough for 3-5 plants. After this, all fallen leaves are raked from under the bushes and burned along with the pests and bacteria that overwintered on them.

When the gooseberries begin to form buds, they are sprayed with Rovikurt solution - (75 g per 10 l). This measure of protection against gall midges, aphids and sawflies. A solution of colloidal sulfur is used against pests that attack buds - 40 g per 10 liters.

In the fall, gooseberries are sanitized, removing all leaves affected by diseases and damaged by pests, as well as dry shoots. Gooseberries and the soil around them are treated with nitrophen - 200 g per 10 liters of water. The row spacing is weeded, and the bush is watered abundantly - a circular groove is dug and 30 liters of water are poured into it, after which it is sealed. The tree trunk circle is mulched with peat about five centimeters thick.

Photo gallery of means to prevent gooseberries from insect pests

Actellik is an excellent solution in the fight against spider mites Colloidal sulfur is used against pests that destroy buds and ovaries Karbofos - a universal remedy against insect pests Nitrofen (nitrafen) - universal protection against pests

The best way to save yourself from the numerous hassles of caring for gooseberries is to purchase zoned varieties that are resistant to many diseases and pests. But it often happens that gardeners have their own favorite varieties, which they would never want to give up, despite their tendency to be damaged, for example, by powdery mildew or anthracnose. In this case, it is easier to prevent the disease than to fight it. But even if the gooseberry has already suffered from some kind of ailment or pest, you should not give up - modern markets and shops have a large number of means to eliminate troubles, and this is not to mention numerous folk recipes. Simply put, growing healthy gooseberries is entirely up to you.

Seeing gooseberries and a white coating on the berries, gardeners, faced with this problem for the first time, give up in bewilderment. Yes, it's a bush disease called powdery mildew. At first, the coating is less noticeable: an almost invisible “frost” is visible on the berries and leaves. These are spores of a fungal disease that grow and infect the plant more and more. If the bush is not treated, the white coating becomes more and more expressive and collects into whole fluffy flakes, affecting the berries and leaves. Then it changes in color - it becomes brown with black dots (fruiting bodies of mushrooms). The bush begins to lose its shoots - they dry out, the berries fall off. The following summer, the disease progresses even more as the spores multiply more intensely, and as a result the plant dies.

What to do if the gooseberry fruits are covered with a white coating of powdery mildew?

If, after examining the gooseberries, you notice a white coating on the berries only in the initial stage, you need to take the necessary measures to stop the development of the fungal disease. At the initial stage (as in our case), the best method is spraying. Active substances for this purpose can be ordinary laundry soap and copper sulfate. Take 20 g of copper sulfate and 150 g of laundry soap per 10 liters of water. It is better to dilute copper sulfate in not too hot water. Pour the thoroughly mixed mixture into the prepared soap solution in a stream. Laundry soap can be grated on a coarse grater. When spraying, special attention should be paid to areas affected by spores. To prevent the occurrence of the disease, it is advisable to spray the entire gooseberry (in this case, a white coating will not appear at all), as well as the soil around it.

Gooseberries by nature are an unpretentious shrub, but they need to be prevented against fungal diseases regularly, every spring. If we talk about currants, fungal spores often infect its leaves and young shoots, while gooseberries are damaged: they wrinkle, dry out and fall off. If the bush is neglected and your gooseberry is white, the coating on the berries is already clearly visible, you need to act immediately. All shoots heavily damaged by mushrooms should be cut off and burned. Do not be afraid that the bush will not give you fruit this year. But you will save him from an insidious disease - powdery mildew.

Prevention of the disease

To prevent plaque on the berries from appearing next summer, in early spring thoroughly treat the bush with the above mixture or use special ready-made preparations for spraying - “Cumulus”, “Tiovit Jet” or “Vectra”.
You can purchase them at any hardware store or supermarket.

For the purpose of prevention, start spraying the plant at the moment when the first young leaves appear. Treat the selected preparation not only to the young shoots, but also to the ground around the bush itself. The second spraying should be carried out during the flowering period, the third - during the formation of the ovary. When the berries ripen, use more gentle preparations for prevention.

how to process gooseberries. A white coating has appeared on the gooseberries. How can you treat the bush to get rid of mold?

Powdery mildew is a type of fungal disease. Mushrooms have one peculiarity - where one type of mushroom grows, there is no place for another - the ecological niche is occupied. In order not to fight the disease, it must be prevented or eliminated by planting other, but harmless, mushrooms on the gooseberries in advance. They are always found in mullein or goat manure. In late autumn or early spring, we cover the gooseberry bushes with a thick layer of fresh manure along the entire perimeter of the crown. And when the leaves come out, you can pour mullein or goat infusion directly over the leaves. Gooseberries are a wonderful feeder and don’t get sick in any way. The harvests are huge and it reproduces easily. We grow the kolobok variety - it has no thorns. Sweet, tasty, productive and easy to collect and not painful.

Try phytosporin, these are natural bacteria. not chemistry. works great against all fungal infections, rot and mold, and you don’t have to treat it like vitriol all summer long

I got rid of the white coating on the berries this way: 7 ml bottle of iodine per 7 liters of water, spray the bushes.

If you start with chemistry, you will continue to process it all the time,

because powdery mildew will periodically return,

if the variety is unstable.

Try Fitoverm, as Elena advises.

Feed heavily with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers,

mulch the soil with rotted straw

(bacillus hay, the enemy of powdery mildew, grows on it).

The bushes should not be thickened.

It is better if such unstable varieties grow in the sun.

Every autumn we prune old shoots. and everything is fine

In winter I pour boiling water over the bushes, in the spring I treat them with Acrobat, and in the summer, if necessary, with Fitosporin.

A matchbox of soda ash + a quarter of a piece of laundry soap in a bucket of water. We process until the buds open for the first time, then every 10-14 days until flowering, and the last time when the fruits set. Pick off diseased fruits and burn them, and severely damaged branches too; they will dry out anyway.

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease. It appears when the bush is poorly heated and has high humidity. Processing needs to be done.

Measures to combat gooseberry powdery mildew: spray with fungicides. Before the buds open, gooseberry bushes and the soil underneath are sprayed with a solution of nitrafen (eradicating spraying). Or you can treat the bushes with a 3% solution of iron sulfate (30 g per 10 liters of water) or 1% solution of copper sulfate (10 g per 10 liters of water).

it's called powdery mildew

This is a complete bummer and it is completely impossible to defeat him with anything. It’s better to buy a variety resistant to powdery mildew and plant

This is a mess for the gooseberries, nothing will help

Delete\. until powdery mildew crawled onto other bushes.

Powdery mildew. The variety is probably not resistant to powdery mildew, but hurry to throw away the bush, there are ways to get rid of it and what to do for prevention. Look in a search engine about much. dew on gooseberries.

Powdery mildew. It’s better to throw out the bush and not bother and cultivate the infection with your own hands. New varieties are resistant - look on the Internet or gardening magazines.

A gray-white coating has appeared on the gooseberries. Looks like powdery mildew, but the leaves are normal. What could this be??

American powdery mildew, treat with Fitosporin, Alirin, Gamair (biofungicides)

Well, it’s either a disease, or someone sprayed your gooseberries..

It all starts with berries.

Treat twice with an interval of 7 days. In case of severe damage

The snow melted and, without waiting for illnesses, I sprayed the burgundy mixture. with copper sulfate which. the result is good.

Treat with Topaz. It helps a lot.

I have the same. First one bush, a year later the second. For two years I treated the bushes with everything - in March I poured hot water with potassium permanganate, then sprayed them with Bordeaux mixture, infusion of ash, Topaz, soda ash, etc. This year the berries are again covered in bloom, and the foliage is beautiful. I uprooted both bushes so that it wouldn’t spread to others. I will plant bushes that are not susceptible to powdery mildew, for example, “Emerald”.

There is a white coating on currant and gooseberry bushes, powdery mildew, methods of control

Alas, your plants are affected by powdery mildew. This year the disease has spread very strongly in the Moscow region, causing a huge

harm. The development of this dangerous disease is facilitated by high relative humidity and warm weather (17-28°C). Hot and dry weather somewhat slows down the development of the disease.

Now the white powdery coating has thickened, turns brown, and takes on the appearance of felt with black dots interspersed with it - fruiting bodies

mushroom. Berries covered with a felt coating become gray and inedible. Unfortunately, the time to fight the disease has already been lost.

But in the fall or next early spring, it is imperative to trim and burn the tops of the affected shoots.

Prevent the development of powdery mildew It is possible only in the initial stage of the disease, immediately when a white coating appears on the underside of the leaves. For

To eradicate foci of disease, plants should be sprayed in the fall or spring with the following preparations: 0.02% topaz 2-3 times with an interval of 10-15 days, or 0.02% Vectra (before and after flowering), or 0.2- 0.3% thiovit jet (only on currants!) after flowering.

Other means are also used: 1/3 of a bucket of mullein or rotted hay is poured into 3 liters of water, left for 3 days and diluted

water in a ratio of 1:3. Then the infusion is filtered and sprayed on the plants.

There is a folk remedy. Take 1 liter of whey, skim milk or buttermilk, add 9 liters of water and spray the bushes. In early spring, use an infusion of wood ash (300 g per 10 liters of water). Plants

sprayed 2 times with an interval of 10-12 days. You can add dry wood ash to the tree trunks of bushes (300-500 g for each bush), mixing it with the soil.

If you plant varieties of currants and gooseberries on your plot resistant to powdery mildew, then there will be no hassle.

This is currant Openwork, Bagheera, Vologda, Curiosity, Fragrant, Zusha, Orlovia, Selechenskaya, Exotic, Vigorous,

gooseberry - African, Kolobok, Pink 2, Spring, Russian, Smena.

Irina Meshcheryakova, candidate of agricultural sciences sciences

White coating on gooseberries and currants, what is it?

This disease is powdery mildew.

This is a disease of shrubs. Powdery mildew is dangerous for gooseberries and currants. The disease manifests itself on shoots, leaves, and fruits. The fruits are covered (and the shoots and leaves too) with a dense gray or white coating that does not wash off.

Last year I tried treating it with phytosporin. And this year it’s the same picture again. What to do? should I remove the bushes?

Powdery mildew. It is necessary to treat.

Powdery mildew - useless to treat, remove

powdery mildew fungal disease

Powdery mildew affects many crops. It also happens on weeds. It is better to grow resistant varieties, especially for gooseberries and currants. To eradicate, try leaving yourself without a crop for one year, but conducting a very active fight. So to speak, eradicate the reptile. But more often, unfortunately, the plantings have to be replaced. I bought 2 bushes of a resistant variety and propagated them. Now there are no such problems.

In early spring, before flowering, you need to spray it with “Topaz”, it helped my gooseberries.

A white coating appears on gooseberries, like mold. What is it and what can you spray it with?

A white coating appears on the gooseberries, like mold... what is it and what can I spray it with??

Most likely it is powdery mildew. Last year I tried to treat currant and gooseberry bushes with a hot shower in early spring before the buds burst. I read that you can add potassium permanganate to the water. Before and after flowering, try the drug “Tiovit Jet”. You can also process “Hom” and “Topaz”. From ecological methods - infusion of ash. In general, new varieties of gooseberries are now being developed that are more resistant to powdery mildew. Last edited on March 14, 2016, 21:09

Tatyana, we water the bushes with hot water every year. Unfortunately, this did not help the gooseberries; all the berries were gone((.

Svetlana, and for gooseberries they write with potassium permanganate. I'll try it this year, I haven't doused it yet. We still have a lot of snow and the frost today is -6 C. In general, old varieties, no matter what you do with them, can still get sick. We refused them. A relative several years ago shared a good variety (green berries), and that was all they kept.

I think you are right. We need to change

It is necessary to spray with copper-containing preparations (hom or others) once every 14 days according to the instructions.

After flowering, treat with soda ash in a soap solution (take 50 grams of soda and 10 liters of water, enough soap to stick better). Soda ash was previously used to wash clothes. First, prepare a soap solution, dilute the soda separately in water, then carefully combine everything. If necessary, filter.

There is also a substance that is used in the food industry in the production of cheese and condensed milk, this is disubstituted sodium phosphate. It is also called disodium phosphate or food additive E339. This substance is used to combat gooseberry powdery mildew. And other powdery mildew mushrooms, for example, on zucchini and pumpkin. The powder is dissolved in water and three treatments are done after 7-9 days. At the same time, it is also a phosphorus fertilizer. To process gooseberries, 100 grams of the substance are diluted in 10 liters of water. The last treatment should be carried out 20 days before harvest.

Maybe these remedies are not so eradicative, but safer for humans. Last edited on March 15, 2016, 08:22

Why poison the garden with drugs when new immune varieties of gooseberries have appeared. There are many of them, they have been known for 50 years. No one in the world grows gooseberries that are not immune to powdery mildew. Change and only change.

This is powdery mildew. You can effectively escape from it if you spray it with Topaz, but it is better to do this right away when you see several of these berries (or leaves). If almost the entire bush is already affected, then Topaz will help little, and it’s unlikely that anything else will help.

How to treat brown coating on gooseberries?

Why do gooseberries become covered with a brown coating?

phytosporin, you can eat it even on the day of treatment, it is impossible to overdose on the concentration, several treatments (biologically a preparation from living bacteria)

powdery mildew.. too late to treat.. will not help

It seems like it’s too late to treat, it’s powdery mildew, it was necessary to spray 1% Bordeaux with the first signs (something in the form of white foam at the tips of the shoots) - this is due to temperature changes, thickening, etc.

They spelled it correctly - it is spherrotheca, American powdery mildew. Now there is nothing to save. Before the buds swell, it is necessary to treat with Bordeaux mixture or something like Topaz or Fundazol. Then a couple more times at intervals of 2-3 weeks. Then there is a chance that he will be alive and well. Be sure to process in the fall. This happens from thickening, from excess moisture, but the main thing is the variety! New varieties resistant to powdery mildew have now been developed.

your variety is not resistant to powdery mildew, it must be treated throughout the season from the moment the leaves begin to bloom, the last time in August after harvesting; it is easier to plant resistant varieties

You have IMPASSABLE DEBRES in the gooseberries, that’s why they “bloom.” Elisheva wrote to you about soap and baking soda. This WILL HELP, BUT, collect all the affected berries and burn them. Then treat the plants, treat the inside of the bushes well. They are not ventilated in your place, so there is STEAM and all sorts of fungi are happy about this and grow for their own pleasure. Afterwards, if there are branches affected by powdery mildew, they will look like they are burned, but it is better to remove them, they are weak and will only spoil the appearance. And the bushes need to be thinned out so that they can be ventilated by the wind.

you need to treat it in advance, for this there is Ridomil Gold, for example

soda ash and slurry will help you

Gooseberry diseases can develop on the branches, stems or berries of the plant. In the latter case, there is a risk of completely losing the crop, so at the initial signs of a disease or pest, measures must be taken to combat them. White plaque on gooseberries is a common problem, especially for older varieties; what to do and how to process them will be described below.

Where does the white coating come from?

If in July (sometimes in June or even in September) a white coating appears on the leaves, branches, but mainly on the berries of the gooseberry, which gradually hardens and turns brown, it means that the plant has been attacked by powdery mildew.

Powdery mildew is a fungus that appears in the spring and lives on the plant all summer and early autumn. If affected by white bloom, gooseberries stop growing and may begin to crumble and crack.

The fungus is most active in windy, rainy, cool seasons. If the summer turned out just like this, then the chance of the gooseberry to “catch” powdery mildew is more than 70%, especially if we are not talking about new plant species. The fact is that new varieties are for the most part resistant to this disease, they are not afraid of it, but the old ones, produced by domestic and foreign breeders, are very susceptible to it. It’s just that earlier, when developing new gooseberry species, they thought more about productivity rather than protection from diseases.

In addition, the fungus most often “invades” large varieties that are pruned from year to year and any weakened ones that no one cares for.

How to process gooseberries?

Also check out these articles

White plaque on gooseberries can only be combated comprehensively; a one-time spraying will not help. The first thing to do is remove all damaged areas (leaves, branches, berries) and burn them. In the fall, pruning is done to the healthy part of the branches, leaves and weeds are constantly removed under the bushes. The soil is loosened and dug up from time to time. All this will help contain the fungus and prevent it from spreading.

If powdery mildew develops frequently, you need to regularly spray the crop with specialized products.

• The first time it is done before flowering begins.
• The second - in the period after the bush has faded.
• The third spraying is done 3 weeks before harvest.

As a remedy for powdery mildew, you can use Topaz, Cumulus or Vectra. These products have proven themselves and do not affect the quality of the berries.

What folk methods are known?

Traditional methods are effective, as a rule, in the initial stages of the disease. The first and most reliable folk remedy for most gooseberry diseases is to pour boiling water over the bush. This is done in early summer before the buds begin to bloom in late autumn. But there are other options.

You can also use a solution of potassium permanganate (1.5 g per 10 liters of water) or an infusion of medicinal herbs, such as tansy, if gooseberries are affected by a white coating. Spraying with folk remedies is carried out several times a season and each time after rain.

What should you be wary of?

If the bushes have been left unattended for a long time, they will most likely have powdery mildew. At the first signs, the bushes are treated with special means, which are described in detail in the article.

The problem with this fungus is that it spreads quickly and is difficult to eradicate. From the infected bush it moves to its “neighbors”. And the white coating on gooseberries develops well on any cultivated plant. So in extreme cases, you need to completely uproot the bush and burn it away from the beds to stop the spread of the disease. After this, it is recommended to treat neighboring plants with anti-fungal agents.

What means of prevention exist?

The main means of prevention is choosing the right variety. If the gooseberry is resistant to powdery mildew, then you won’t have to worry about fungus. But in cases where there is no choice, you can simply carry out preventive procedures on time. For this purpose, fertilizers made from phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are used; they make the plant more resilient, improve disease resistance and fruit quality.

From time to time it is necessary to loosen the ground under the bush. This is not easy to do, especially since some bushes are thorny, but it is worth it! Loosening provides the roots with oxygen and prevents the leaves and weeds under the bush from rotting.

​Similar articles​​- Boulogne white, Crystal, Dutch white; red - Red Cross, Faya fertile and Boulogne red.​ ​spores that cause repeated infections.​

White spot (septoria) is a fungal disease of currants and gooseberries. The disease manifests itself in the form of small brown spots, then they turn white (brown border). When severely infected by the fungus, plants completely lose their foliage.​

Signs of powdery mildew on gooseberries

​You need to treat the ovary of the berries with a solution of baking soda - a teaspoon (teaspoon!)

​5. Goblet rust on gooseberries.​

Pathogens overwinter

​. This year the disease has spread very strongly in the Moscow region, causing a huge

​It is far from certain that preventive measures will help completely resolve the issue. Or it may simply happen that the disease comes from the other side of the garden bed, which you have not cultivated, or even from neighbors who do not garden at all. In general, the problem is real even with the closest attention, and therefore we need safe methods to combat it.​

How to protect plants from powdery mildew?

​1)​

​Therefore, during the growing season, it is necessary to carry out chemical treatments repeatedly.​

• - affected leaves and berries;
• Brown spot (anthracnose) is a fungal disease of currants. Appears as small brown dots on the leaves. The spots subsequently merge, the leaves turn brown and fall off. Anthracnose on currants, gooseberries and raspberries - with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or a 1% solution of ferrous sulfate.​
• ​baking soda per liter of water. Try spraying it like this now.​
• In spring, rust spores are carried by the wind to leaves, shoots or young gooseberry ovaries. At the sites of infection, bright yellow-orange pads appear, resembling glasses. They are clearly visible on the underside of the leaves or against the background of the green ovary. The affected parts of the plants fall off without infecting healthy leaves. The carrier of the disease is sedge.​

How to fight powdery mildew on gooseberries?

​on affected leaves and shoots. In spring they are the primary source of infection. The development of the disease is promoted by high air humidity (80-90%) at a temperature of 20-25°C.​

Copper sulfate for powdery mildew

This is currant

Treating gooseberries with soap and soda

​harm. The development of this dangerous disease is facilitated by high relative humidity and warm weather (17-28°C). Hot and dry weather somewhat slows down the development of the disease.​

A solution of copper sulfate, namely a mixture of 80 g per bucket of water, is recommended to be used for treating plants and soil in early spring, even before the buds open. It is advisable to carry out the treatment from a sprayer, very carefully.​

Potassium permanganate solution for powdery mildew

Gooseberry powdery mildew is a really serious problem

Treatment of gooseberries with mullein solution

​use of healthy planting material;​

​Under favorable conditions​

Treatment of gooseberries with ash solution

Powdery mildew of black currants and gooseberries is a fungal disease that has caused great harm to black currants and gooseberries in recent years.

​throw away.​

​Ways to protect gooseberries from vocal rust.​

The disease causes great harm to the bushes. A felt coating, almost completely covering young leaves, shoots and berries, disrupts the development of plants. The shoots slow down or stop growing altogether and become bent. By autumn, their tops turn black and appear burnt, the internodes are shortened, the leaves become small and yellowish. Some of the diseased berries ripen, but they are completely covered with plaque and become unsuitable for food and preparations.​

​Openwork, Bagheera, Vologda, Curiosity, Fragrant, Zusha, Orlovia, Selechenskaya, Exotic, Vigorous​

Proper care of gooseberries (video)

​Now the white powdery coating has thickened, turns brown, and takes on the appearance of felt with black dots interspersed with it - fruiting bodies​ ​You can also spray after the gooseberries have flowered. To do this, dissolve 50-60 g of soda ash in a bucket of water and add a little grated laundry soap to make the solution thicker and stick well. Here you can already use a broom for processing.

DachaDecor.ru

There is a white coating on currant and gooseberry bushes, powdery mildew, methods of control

​, which should be approached with caution. Poisoning plants with chemicals is not always convenient, since the fruits ripen quite quickly, and other methods do not always help. So what should gardeners use to combat gooseberry powdery mildew?​

​2)​​weather, powdery mildew on gooseberries can develop within​- affected berries;

The disease most often appears in early June. First, white blurry spots appear on single leaves (on the underside). Then young leaves, shoots and berries are covered with a white coating.

​Treat by spraying against pests before harvest...​

​Before flowering, against columnar rust, spray the bushes with oxychloride (40 g per 10 liters of water), and after harvesting, treat it against columnar rust.​

​Ways to protect gooseberries from American powdery mildew (spheroteka).​

​,​ ​mushroom. Berries covered with a felt coating become gray and inedible. Unfortunately, the time to fight the disease has already been lost.​

​Today, DachaDecor.ru specialists are ready to solve problems with plant diseases and pests on a turnkey basis, and therefore we really hope that our efforts will help each of our readers.​ ​planting by layering only from healthy bushes;​

​all summer, while new young leaves and shoots are growing. On currants, the disease reaches its maximum development in July - August. In recent years, currants have been more affected than gooseberries.​

​3​ ​The disease develops rapidly in high humidity and warm weather. Hot and dry weather suppresses the disease.​

​throw away the berries.. treat the bush with Topaz.. . In the spring, repeat the treatment before and after flowering and there will be no powdery mildew on the bush

Collecting and burning fallen leaves and ovaries. Do not plant gooseberries in low, marshy areas where sedge grows. The proximity of coniferous trees is also undesirable. As soon as the bushes come out from under the snow, pour hot water (80°C) over them. When the first signs of the disease appear, spray with topaz (2-3 times with an interval of 10-14 days), Vectra (before and after flowering) or strobe (once every 2 years after flowering). To prepare a working solution, 20 g of one of these drugs is diluted in 10 liters of water.​

​a​ ​But in the fall or next early spring, it is imperative to cut off and burn the tops of the affected shoots.​ Pre-treatment of gooseberries or in the first stages of the disease can be done using a very weak solution of potassium permanganate, up to 1.5 g per bucket of water.

​3)​ ​The disease causes great damage​
- disputes;

​At the end of summer, the white coating turns into brown. The disease greatly inhibits the plants, the shoots stop growing and become bent, the leaves and berries become smaller and fall off. Powdery mildew on gooseberries, currants and strawberries is eradicated with a 0.5% solution of soda ash.​ ​I’ll also add: pour the ashes under the bush and you will forget about many diseases on gooseberries and currants

​Return -​

bestgardener.ru

How to deal with gooseberry diseases

​gooseberry -​

​Prevent the development of powdery mildew​
A mullein solution specially prepared and infused for 3-4 days will also help cope with the disease. You just need to take fresh mullein and dilute it with clean water, 1:3, then leave it and dilute it again, also 1:3. Spray the plants not very generously, but thoroughly, preferably with a simple broom, every week.​
​It is very easy to recognize a serious disease of a cultivated plant; you just need to pay attention to the bush and berries in time.
​trimming diseased parts, and then disinfecting above-ground parts in a copper solution
​. Severe damage to gooseberries by powdery mildew leads to

​4​ ​.The currant gall midge is a small flying insect that lays eggs on budding leaves. The white larvae emerging from the eggs gnaw young leaves. The leaves become ugly and the shoots stop growing.​

​Your gooseberries are affected by powdery mildew. You can treat the entire bush with whey diluted 10 times with water. - it is harmless to humans, and the lactic acid bacteria present in the whey will eat the mealy mushroom.​ ​to top of page​

​Autumn or early spring​​African, Kolobok, Pink 2, Spring, Russian, Smena.​

​It is possible only in the initial stage of the disease, immediately when a white coating appears on the underside of the leaves. For​

The fruits are covered with a white coating or a light white-yellow film, which dries out and turns into thicker formations that affect the entire surface. Powdery mildew can also spread to leaves, but it is more common on currant bushes.​

​vitriol (100 g per 10 liters of water) for 5 minutes, followed by rinsing in clean water in case of using affected planting material (from the nursery);​

​loss of berry yield by 20 - 50%, a reduction in bush growth, the death of shoots, and prolonged exposure to the disease can lead to complete death of the bushes.​ ​ - perithecia with a bag at the bottom, bag and spores at the top;

The currant gall midge is a small flying insect that flies out during currant flowering. The female lays eggs on woody shoots. The orange larvae hatched from eggs, up to 4 mm long, live under the bark, feeding on wood. If there is a massive attack in mid-summer, the shoots dry out. In this way, the entire plant may be damaged in early spring. still in the snow. make a shower for the gooseberries. from simple boiling water. all the larvae of all kinds of bugs and spiders will be scalded by boiling water and die. You can also process all berry bushes...​

​This is a disease - Powdery mildew, the easiest solution is to change the variety to a complex-resistant one.​

​pruning and burning the affected tips of the shoots (they are black and twisted), collecting and destroying old fallen leaves. Purchase for planting gooseberry varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew or are slightly affected by it (Kolobok, Malachite, Rodnik, Rozovy 2, Russky, Smena, etc.).​ ​Irina Meshcheryakova, candidate of agricultural sciences. sciences​

To eradicate foci of disease, plants should be sprayed in the fall or spring with the following preparations: 0.02% topaz 2-3 times with an interval of 10-15 days, or 0.02% vectra (before and after flowering), or 0.2 -0.3% thiovit jet (only on currants!) after flowering. Spraying with a solution of wood ash is considered very effective, and most importantly, safe for plants and humans.

​Gooseberry fruits, under the influence of a dangerous disease, change in shape, become smaller, develop poorly and dry out, and the leaves curl, dry out and lead the plant to death.​ ​4)​

The mushroom overwinters on fallen berries​5​

​American powdery mildew is common​​worm bugs have nothing to do with it at all. This is clearly a fungal disease, perhaps not powdery mildew, but still fungal. Don't cut anything, just cut off the dried branches in the spring. Now treat with Topaz or Topaz +, or whatever they offer in the store. The main thing is that the bag says “against diseases,” otherwise now sellers often don’t understand it themselves. Burn the berries, do not put them in compost, fungal spores will multiply there. It would also be a good idea to burn the fallen leaf. In late autumn or early spring, additionally treat the branches and soil with Bordeaux mixture for prevention..​

This is gooseberry terry. The disease has practically no cure. The bush needs to be removed. Uproot.​​2. White spot (septoria) on gooseberries.​

​Anthracnose​

• ​Other means are also used​

To prepare a remedy for powdery mildew, you need to perform a whole ritual, but it is quite simple. Immediately 1 kg of clean and, preferably, sifted ash is dissolved in a bucket of heated water. The resulting solution is stirred once a day and infused for 4-7 days.​

bestgardener.ru

How to treat gooseberries if there is a white coating on the berries. a white coating appeared on the berries, what should I do with this bush, thank you

Ruslan An...

​Due to the rapid development of the disease, it must be fought very actively, otherwise the lesions can spread not only to one bush and ruin its harvest, but also spread to nearby plants, which will deprive you of the entire harvest.​

Nina Ivanovna Skorlupina

​spraying bushes and soil under bushes to destroy wintering infection with a solution
​, leaves and affected shoots. In the spring it infects young
- conidial sporulation of the fungus;
​everywhere and is caused by a fungus (​

Irina Vladimirovna

​Although this crop rarely suffers much from diseases and pests, in case of powdery mildew it is advisable to spray it with Alirin-B solution, and in case of rust it is advisable to spray it with Bordeaux mixture. When infested with bud mites, sprinkle with colloidal sulfur like currants. If branches are damaged by glass, cut them at the base.​

Lyudmila Zhdanova

I had this happen. The bush itself is alive and lives without suffering, but it is not possible to eat the berries.​

Anastasia.

​It affects leaves, less often berries. At the end of May and beginning of June, overwintered spores fly out and infect the leaves. In early June, small angular yellow-brown spots appear on them, which then turn white in the center and are framed by a brown border. In these places, black dots are formed - pycnidia (fruiting bodies), in which spores overwinter.

n

The main diseases of gooseberries are:

Bebykh Svetlana

​: 1/3 of a bucket of mullein or rotted hay is poured with 3 liters of water, left for 3 days and diluted

Hedgehog

On the last day, do not stir the solution, but let it settle well, after which the liquid is very carefully poured into another container, without sediment. You can also add a little grated laundry soap here, dissolve it well and treat the plants through a sprayer.​

Gooseberry berries are covered with plaque, what to do with it and how to treat it?

Lydia

Nitrafen (200 g per 10 liters of water) or a solution of iron sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water) in early spring before the buds begin to open;
​leaves and shoots.​

Zhanna Kuznetsova

​6​
​table 56​

Hedgehog

​Yoshta -​

LOVE F/C

​I couldn’t get rid of anything.​

Alexander Grushin

​The rapid development of the disease occurs in the second half of summer. Already in August, septoria can cause massive leaf fall, infected shoots ripen poorly, growth decreases, and weak buds are formed. Next year's harvest may be significantly reduced.​

Lyubov Tsaregorodtseva

​1. American powdery mildew (spheroteka)​

Irina Plekhanova

​water in a ratio of 1:3. Then the infusion is filtered and sprayed on the plants.

How to get rid of scab on bushes? We have Yoshta (a mixture of currants and gooseberries)

Larisa Skripka

Spraying should be carried out in the evening, in calm weather, carefully treating all leaves and shoots. The remaining mixture can be supplemented with water and watered over the plants to kill everything unnecessary in the soil.​

​Powdery mildew can attack gooseberries from other plants, for example, from currants, strawberries and others, but it often happens that the causative agent of the disease simply overwinters in the soil and in a favorable period moves onto the plants.​
​5)​

Black currant varieties are relatively resistant to disease

- withered shoot

​). Symptoms of the disease appear in the spring after flowering on leaves, shoots, petioles, and berries.

Valentina Panyukova

​places increased demands on potassium nutrition, then on soils with high fertility you can get by by adding only ash (1 cup each) or 20-30 g of potassium sulfate (or potassium magnesium, depending on age) under the bush. On rather poor soils, such as sandy, sandy loam or ordinary, but poorly cultivated soils, it is advisable to add compost or humus. When planting in such soil in the summer, it is advisable to carry out 2 feedings. The first in June, and the second at the beginning of berry set. As a fertilizer, you can take an infusion of grass or manure, to which it is good to add Baikal EM1 in a ratio of 1:100 to reduce the odor and improve the chemical composition. If you have no time to prepare an infusion or nothing to use, then you can use an organic fertilizer such as Gumistar, which can also be used for foliar feeding (by leaves). After heavy rains, especially on light soils, magnesium deficiency may occur, which manifests itself in the lightening of the leaf between the veins. In this case, you should feed with a solution of magnesium sulfate or Aquadon-micro Universal fertilizer (in addition to microelements, it also contains magnesium). It is worth paying attention that the dose of compost depends on the method of application. That is, if organic matter is applied as fertilizer and embedded in the grooves, then 4-6 kg is enough to provide nutrition, but if you simply scatter it as mulch, then up to 2.5-5 buckets, that is, with a sufficient amount of organic matter, one mulching is enough. If compost is in short supply, you can do this: first add ½-2/3 of a bucket of it into the grooves, and then mulch with sawdust (preferably soaked in a solution of urea or ammonium nitrate) or dried grass, for example, weeded weeds. This approach is also applicable to other crops, for example, currants, honeysuckle, gooseberries, and some fruit trees. The only difference is the dose. For high fruit set, it is advisable to provide it with cross-pollination: for this you should plant a blackcurrant and gooseberry bush.

Filipich

​Even complete cutting to the root of all branches. did not help. The new shoots from the root grew well, but when the berries appeared, that terryness appeared again. Disease at the gene level.​

Irina Shabalina

​Ways to protect gooseberries from white spot (septoria).​

Irina Ryazantseva

​2. White spot (septoria)
​There is a folk remedy.​

​There are many preventive methods, which we have already discussed in a number of articles where the topic of powdery mildew on shrubs and trees (for example, apple trees), vegetables and even flowers was touched upon. But the main problem is that many summer residents are in no hurry to carry out prevention, but are ready to poison plants and soil already at the moment when diseases or pests are in the active phase.

​spraying the bushes during the growing season in order to protect them from infection, with soda ash and soap (50 g of soda and 50 g of soap per 10 liters of water) 4-5 times: before flowering, immediately after it, and then 2 more - 3 times at intervals of 8 - 10 days after the previous one;

- Dove, Glory of Leningrad,

Formation of dense plaque on shoots
​Table 56. Gooseberry powdery mildew

​=For the sake of design. To grow as a hedge, it is recommended to plant it at a distance of 35-45 cm from each other. Its bushes can be included in mixed borders (in this case, the distance between plants should be 0.7-1 m). Some designers like yoshta in standard form. To do this, before planting, it is recommended to remove all shoots except the strongest, and carefully cut out all the branches of this shoot to a height of about 30-40 cm. To make such a “tree” look better, you need to shorten all the branches in the crown by half and remove unnecessary ones (thin out ) .​

Powdery mildew of gooseberries, signs, methods of control

​Treat with the preparation: "Alirin-B" or "Topaz", watering to a minimum + watering with the preparation "Fitosporin" + do not apply fertilizers (organic). Before flowering and after harvesting, treat the bushes and the soil under them with oxychloride (40 g per 10 liters of water), soon (20 ml per 10 liters), infusion of ash or soap-copper emulsion. In autumn or early spring, collecting and burning fallen leaves.​ ​3. Anthracnose​Take 1 liter of whey, skim milk or buttermilk, add 9 liters of water and spray the bushes. In early spring, use an infusion of wood ash (300 g per 10 liters of water). Plants

​Karelian, Ruby, Altai giant and Primorsky champion; Laxton, Lia fertile, Non-falling, Neapolitan, Bogatyr, Dutch black, Cox, Pobeda, Nadezhda, Memory Michurin are moderately affected by powdery mildew.

​, leaves and berries stops plant growth.​ The berries of gooseberries are severely affected, and the fruit branches of black currants are affected.

​Its peculiarity is that it practically does not produce berries unless gooseberry bushes and golden currants grow nearby. Only the three of them will produce good harvests.​

​cut down without regret, I encountered this problem, no cure, no use, they cut down all the bushes for two years, they didn’t plant gooseberries, then they planted new bushes, now everything is fine​ ​3. Anthracnose on gooseberries.​

​4. Columnar rust Spray 2 times with an interval of 10-12 days. You can add dry wood ash to the tree trunks of bushes (300-500 g for each bush), mixing it with soil.​
​Fight powdery mildew on gooseberry bushes​​But problems can be prevented, and this can be done better in the following ways:​
​treatment of bushes with infusion of slurry or hay dust 3 - 4 times per season in the evening or at​Relatively resistant to disease gooseberry varieties
​The affected shoots are bent, the internodes are shortened, the leaves become corrugated, small, fragile, chlorotic, their skin lags behind the tissues, the berries crack, fall off unripe along with diseased leaves.​ ​and stalks.​
​Instead of 5-10% of ovaries, flowers will be pollinated by 70-80%! That is, there will be a sharp increase in yield.​Opinions differ. I also asked a similar question. Read this link here

​Affects young growing leaves. The spores infect them in the spring. Small brownish-brown spots appear on both sides of the leaf blade. When severely damaged, they merge. The leaves curl upside down, appear burnt, and fall off. Bushes infected with anthracnose have reduced winter hardiness, and in severe frosts they may freeze.​ ​5. Glass rust

​If you plant varieties of currants and gooseberries on your plot

​it is possible, and it is extremely effective if done on time. If not, it will be necessary to prepare more carefully for spraying, carry it out more often, or even treat it with chemicals. Try to keep the area as clean as possible from weeds, remove shoots and mown plants in a timely manner, and avoid contamination and thickening; ​

​cloudy weather: first - before flowering; the second - immediately after flowering; the third and fourth - with an interval of 10 days.​

​- Emerald, Malachite, Preschooler, Isabella, Harvest, Raisin, Siberian, First-born, Pioneer, Zaporozhye, Houghton, Grape, Mysovsky 17, Smena, Sunny.​ ​Powdery mildew​

​Initially, the affected parts of the plants are covered with a white, loose coating, which is a mycelium, then the coating quickly becomes powdery and mealy, which is associated with the formation of fungal spores.​

​Larissa, now is the time to pour boiling water over the currant, gooseberry, and yoshta bushes.... In the morning frost. Good luck!​ ​I have the same problem. For several years now. They treated it with everything they could - and even cut it off almost to a stump. Nothing helps. Everything that was said above must be done—uprooted.​

​Ways to protect gooseberries from anthracnose.​

​1. American powdery mildew (spheroteca) on gooseberries.​​, resistant to powdery mildew, then there will be no hassle.​

​Valentina Trofimova, Odintsovo: “At the beginning of June, a white cobwebby coating appeared on the currant and gooseberry bushes on the underside of the leaves. Then all the apical leaves, petioles, young shoots and berries were covered with a silvery coating. What kind of scourge is this and how to deal with it? Help !"​

​Choose for planting only healthy and strong plants, necessarily adapted to the planting region;​​7)​

Fortunately, special fungicides have already been developed that can save the shrub if you start to fight the problem in time. In this article we will talk about what to do if a brown coating has formed on the gooseberries: what this may be associated with, and how to treat it.

In general, plaque on gooseberries may indicate several serious diseases at once. If we talk specifically about brown plaque, then this is a clear sign of the most dangerous and common gooseberry disease - powdery mildew.

Oddly enough, but among the people, this disease is more often called just white plaque. It turns brown at an advanced stage, when there is no point in fighting the disease, and the bush must simply be removed and destroyed outside the garden plot.

In general, powdery mildew can be of two types - American and European, and their external manifestations are similar, and the diseases differ only in the type of fungus that causes them.

The first symptoms of the disease can be detected in the spring or at the very beginning of summer: a white coating appears on young shoots, which in the initial stages is easily erased even with your fingers. But, of course, you won’t get rid of the fungus this way. And soon the colony will completely move on to the ovaries and fruits of the plant.

Moreover, every day the plaque will become denser and denser, and its color will become darker and darker, until it becomes dark brown. And if treatment is not started on time, then after 2-3 seasons the bush will die completely, and the pores of the fungus will also scatter with the wind throughout the entire garden area, infecting other plants. Moreover, powdery mildew is not afraid of even severe frosts.

When dealing with powdery mildew or spheroteca, control measures must be the most serious, and not one-time, but permanent, including preventive. And here are the most effective methods of treatment:

• Affected berries and infected parts of the plant are taken outside the site and destroyed.
• In early spring, the shrub is treated with boiling water to kill fungal spores.
• Fungicides are applied even before the first ovaries form. Bordeaux mixture or soda ash solution is used. Moreover, it is best to add a little laundry soap to the latter. Let us add that spraying with chemicals is usually carried out in the first half of the day.
• In later stages of the disease, you can try using an infusion of wood ash, which can be used to treat both the upper parts of the bush and the ground parts (300 grams of dry mixture is diluted in 10 liters of water).
• If the entire gooseberry planting is already affected, then you will have to use more powerful means - complex fungicides. Fitosporin, Topaz and Fundazol have proven themselves well.
• Additionally, you can use organic fertilizers - mullein, bird manure or humus. They are diluted with water in a ratio of one to three. This feeding strengthens the bacteria that fight the fungus.
• If powdery mildew has already been observed on the site, then experienced gardeners recommend purchasing and planting exclusively spheroteca-resistant varieties. So that you don’t have to wonder later if the gooseberries are covered with a brown coating, what to do?

Mold on berries and spots on gooseberries: other causes

As mentioned above, there are several diseases at once, due to which various spots appear on the gooseberries, and the fruits can become moldy. And in second place in frequency after spheroteca is anthracnose. This disease is also caused by a fungus, and plants are especially susceptible to it during rainy and warm periods.

First, white spots with a glossy structure appear on the gooseberry, which merge with each other over time. And after a while they also darken, and the entire bush acquires a brown tint. If treatment is not started, then very soon the leaves will begin to dry, the appearance of young shoots will slow down, and the harvest will deteriorate and decrease.

For proper treatment, it is important not only to use chemicals, but also to remove infected parts and remove fallen leaves. And the most effective fungicide in this case is Bordeaux mixture, which is diluted with water in a ratio of 100 grams per 10 liters of water. The crop will need to be processed at least four times a season with an interval of fifteen to twenty days.

Rust

It is immediately clear where this name comes from - glass rust, because its main feature is a characteristic stain shape, bright orange color. Infection usually occurs in early spring, when the wind brings fungal spores. The foliage on the gooseberry becomes distorted, curls and falls off. And if treatment is not started in time, then rust will affect the fruits, which will also begin to deform and dry out.

It is believed that the most effective way to combat this disease is proper planting and prevention. Thus, it is recommended to plant only varieties with resistance to this disease. In addition, bushes growing in places with high humidity and near bodies of water are most susceptible to rust.

But if infection still cannot be avoided, then Bordeaux mixture will be an effective means of fighting rust - a solution that is already familiar to us: 100 grams per 10 liters of water. But this time the gooseberries are processed in three stages:

• during the formation of ovaries;
• immediately after flowering;
• 10-14 days after flowering ends.

Well, at the end, a few words about diseases typical of gooseberry fruits.

1. The leaves turn yellow, followed by the berries. The reason is the already familiar spheroteka or powdery mildew. If yellow spots appear on the leaves along the veins, then most likely the bush is infected with mosaic.
2. Mold on berries. The reason is the same - powdery mildew, but it can also be a sign that the bush is affected by a pest - aphids.
3. Berries and leaves fall. Almost all of the diseases listed above and many others can cause this. But there is another reason - perhaps there is a nitrogen deficiency in the soil or some macroelements are missing.
4. Scab is quite rare in gooseberries, but in the garden it is a common disease. At the same time, dark brown spots also appear on the plant - on the fruits and leaves. The bush should immediately be treated with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (100 grams per 10 liters of water) or a solution of copper sulfate (40 grams per 10 liters of water).