Make a hole in the epoxy resin ball. Molds made from epoxy and available materials. How to make molds with your own hands. Video master classes

For “red currants” made from epoxy resin, you will need epoxy itself, polymer clay (baked), “cold porcelain” or something similar - self-hardening polymer clay, for example. And also, wire for “twigs”, paints - acrylic and oil, glue and disposable utensils - for mixing components in the process of creating “red currants” from epoxy.

Study a real, living redcurrant branch to know exactly what its resin copy will look like - from the size of the seeds inside the berry to their location on the branch.

Using ordinary resin and optical hardener 921 (op), you can get a “clone” of a living red currant branch with berries and leaves, like a real one.

Preparation of epoxy resin: mix resin and hardener in a 2:1 ratio. We work with gloves!

We add the hardener to the resin, and not vice versa.

Mix the epoxy resin with a wooden stick (spatula) for several minutes. pour the mixture into a clean bowl and stir again.

The resin hardens completely within a day. And after about 5-6 hours it turns into the “rubber” consistency we need.

We apply drops of resin to some surface to form red currant “berries”.

We make the bones from baked clay. If “cold porcelain” or self-hardening clay is used as a material, then they need to be prepared in advance - about a day in advance, so that it does not become cloudy upon contact with liquid.

Roll out the clay and cut off pieces for the “bones”. They are baked in the oven for several minutes at a temperature of 120 degrees.

After one and a half to two hours, the resin will thicken and will resemble honey in appearance. Check the thickening with a toothpick from time to time.

Place polymer clay “bones” on drops of epoxy resin.

Remove drops of resin from the surface.

Wrap the clay bones in elastic resin.

Roll into balls: small berries can consist of one drop of resin, large ones - of 2-3 drops.

Here you need to be careful and roll the balls up from time to time so that the resin that has not yet hardened does not spread and lose its ball shape.

For branches, it is better to use special floral wire (No. 33 in white winding), which should be sanded before creating artificial currant branches.

Insert the wire into the resin ball.

You can simply stick it into epoxy resin.

Or pre-drill a hole after the currant “berry” has completely hardened.

Glue the wire with superglue.

We are waiting for it to harden.

Using acrylic paint we paint the “currant” from the top to the wire at the base.

Vintage paints (a mixture of yellow and red) will give future berries a beautiful gloss and natural color.

Dip the berries into a container of paint.

Remove excess paint with a napkin.

We use paint thinner - the berries will dry much faster, within a couple of hours.

We paint “cold porcelain” yellow-green.

We roll the wire for the stem with the prepared “cold porcelain” of the delicate green color that we got.

The tails of the berries can be made from “porcelain” painted brown.

It is convenient to make a thin sheet of “porcelain” by placing it in a thick plastic bag or file.

Cover half of the clay with a layer of napkin and “rub” it into it.

We fold the leaf, which is reinforced with a paper napkin.

Cut squares according to the number of berries.

We form tails for currant berries.

Stipules are made similarly from green clay.

We attach the tails with superglue.

Cut off unnecessary parts.

We paint the wire with acrylic paints mixed with latex glue.

We make holes in the slightly hardened clay on the “stem” of the currant.

We fasten the berries, starting from the top of the branch. We use “Superglue Gel” and press the wires with the berries with a needle.

Bend the branch with pliers.

We cut the clay.

We secure the “dried buds” with tape.

Roll out a piece of green clay into the shape of a suitable mold and apply the texture.

Glue in a piece of wire rolled in green clay.

We form leaves.

Paint the dried sheets with oil.

Attached the leaves to the stem.

“Such a twig can be used in an interior composition or as a decoration,” writes the author of the master class.

When working with epoxy resin, pouring is carried out in special forms - molds. They are sold in construction stores and creative departments. But the cost of such products is usually high, and the range is poor. In this case, you can make molds for epoxy resin with your own hands.

Forms – purchased and homemade

To create real masterpieces from epoxy, you will have to get original molds. They are usually made of silicone, this material is ideal for pouring the composition. It is easy to remove the finished product from silicone molds; their walls are smooth, therefore, sanding of the decoration will be minimal.

In addition to casting from epoxy, such molds are perfect for making products from clay, plaster, mastic, and you can also make soap in them. It is even permissible to cook food in the oven, however, then food-grade heat-resistant silicone must be used to create molds. Ready-made molds for jewelry epoxy are usually flowers, leaves, geometric shapes, ovals, and balls. The cost of a small set is 300-500 rubles or more.

Anyone can make silicone molds on their own. This is what most craftsmen do who create jewelry and figurines at a professional level. The price of the work will be much lower, especially if several different products are produced at once. In addition, it can become a profitable business.

Silicone molds - what they are made of

Two-component liquid silicone is the best material for the production of molds for casting epoxy objects. It hardens without shrinking; it doesn’t even require heating - room temperature is enough.

Some people use regular silicone sealant mixed with gypsum, but the quality of such molds will be lower. It is recommended to buy two-component silicone - it is specially created for injection molding work and does not stick after hardening.

All such silicones are presented as a base and a catalyst in different packages. For technical (non-food) purposes, silicones of the brands Pentasil, Copypasta, Elastolux, and Siliflex are used. They are very durable and have minimal shrinkage - up to 1.5%.

“Siliflex” is highly dense and slightly less strong. "Elastolux" cannot be torn, it is very durable, perfect for creating molds of any complexity. Copy-paste silicone is applied layer by layer with a brush; it is usually used for making large molds. Platinum is most often used as a catalyst in an amount of 2-3% (the exact proportion is indicated in the instructions). “Mold Star” and “Rudi” are also considered good products. Even a beginner can work with them.

Other raw materials for production

How to make molds and ready-made filling with your own hands, what else is needed for this? The main casting material is silicone compound (two-component silicone) or rubber; it can be easily processed by hand. When purchasing a one-component composition, you additionally need to purchase a catalyst. You will also need the following materials and tools:

• syringes for measuring catalyst, epoxy resin;
• container for mixing silicone;
• stirring stick;
• container, scales for weighing silicone.

If you need to create a mold with a separating half, you will need to additionally purchase a special compound. Wax aerosols are recommended; you can also use candle wax (melted) and Vaseline. The base (formwork) will be created from plasticine, therefore, this material must be available.

For subsequent filling you will need transparent epoxy resin (jewelry grade). The range of this material is wide, there are expensive and cheap compositions. It is important that the polymerization time is not short, otherwise the novice craftsman will not have the opportunity to form the product.

Step-by-step instruction

Before starting work, you need to familiarize yourself with a number of important rules:

1. Be sure to do a test pour to determine what a particular brand of silicone does not stick to. If the material sticks, you will have to coat the walls with a release agent.
2. Make sure that the room temperature is +20…+25 degrees. If it is lower or higher, the gelation time of the silicone will change with the same amount of catalyst. The quality of the finished mold will be reduced. In the cold season, you need to let the compound stand in a warm place for a day.
3. The material must be stirred carefully so as not to cause air bubbles. When stirring, you can add special dyes for silicone. The ideal option is to place the mass in a special vacuum chamber before pouring.

There are tin-based silicones, they can also be used for work. They are suitable only for non-food purposes; they are often used for casting jewelry. Before pouring such material, a curing test is done. Typically, more catalyst needs to be added than with conventional two-part silicone.

You should also find a product from which the form will be removed. It should have a glossy surface, because silicone will repeat even the smallest scratches. In the future, they will be clearly visible on an epoxy object. For example, a bearing is used to make a round shape.

Detailed instructions for creating molds are as follows:

1. Apply plasticine in an even layer onto a flat, solid base. Press in the part to be copied. Flat products are pressed into plasticine to the level of passing the boundaries of ½ of the future mold. For volumetric parts, it is worth applying another layer of plasticine.
2. Walk along the perimeter of the part, pressing the plasticine against its walls to create a clear boundary. For this purpose, you can use matches and toothpicks. Next, it is important to make sure that the plasticine fits tightly to the part. Otherwise, liquid silicone will flow under it when the master fills the mold.
3. Make walls for the future mold from plasticine. The distance between the part and the wall is up to 7 mm; the wall exceeds the largest point of the copied product by the same height. All joints must be carefully leveled.
4. Make a series of indentations in the bottom of the container. They will prevent the half of the new form from moving. Afterwards, the plasticine container will be ready for pouring.
5. Mix the required portion of liquid silicone with the catalyst as indicated in the instructions. Accurate kitchen scales are used for measuring. Typically, silicone is white, transparent, and the catalyst is colored.
6. Pour the finished mixture into the plasticine base. All actions must be smooth and slow. As a result, voids are eliminated in the fill, and the air will have time to escape. But it is also necessary to take into account the fluidity time of a particular brand of material - some harden in just 10 minutes. At the end of the pouring, the mold is removed to a secluded place where it will harden.
7. After complete curing, all plasticine must be carefully removed. It comes off easily from silicone and does not stick. First, remove the areas on the sides, then from the bottom. In your hands you will have half of the form with the copied product inside.
8. Place the mold on new plasticine and build walls around it again. Glue the joint especially carefully; it must subsequently be airtight.
9. Cover the surface of the first half with a separating layer of Vaseline, paraffin, wax. They are applied with a brush and applied in a very thin layer.
10. Pour the silicone in the same way as for the first half. Then you need to wait for complete curing.
11. Remove the second form, remove the plasticine. Separate the halves of the molds. If the separating layer has not fulfilled its task, you will have to cut them off from each other. Remove the copied part.

Casting of epoxy products can be carried out immediately after the mold is ready. The resin is mixed with the hardener in the proportion indicated on the package; if necessary, pigment is added. Gently mix the epoxy and let it sit until the air bubbles come out. Next, apply the resin to both halves of the mold with a brush, making an even layer. Place the parts together, excess epoxy will be squeezed out at this time.

The molds are pressed tightly or fastened with rubber rings or hard plates. Leave the resin for a day to harden. Afterwards the halves are separated and the product is removed. Drips are removed with a toothpick, and the product is treated with fine sandpaper.

Mold – sphere and hemisphere

When creating jewelry from epoxy resin, sphere and hemisphere shapes are used quite often. Therefore, it makes sense to make molds of the required size in a set with your own hands. Some craftsmen prepare molds from an equal ratio of cornstarch and silicone sealant. Small molds can be sculpted from this mass, larger ones - only from two-component silicone.

After combining the two ingredients of the material (silicone and catalyst), you need to thoroughly mix the mass so that there are no lumps or streaks. Then take a disposable cup and cut it. Drop a little Moment glue onto the bottom and place several glass balls of the desired size. In just 5 minutes they will stick and will not move. Next, pour the silicone in a very thin stream directly onto the balls (or onto one, as is more convenient).

After 5 minutes, tap the bottom of the glass on the table, this will help remove any air bubbles that have appeared. They will rise to the surface, after which they must be pierced with a needle. Press the balls ½ deep into the mass. Then you should wait until the material has completely cured. After a day, you can take out the silicone balls. The shapes are removed from the glass and carefully trimmed. You can use them immediately.

Caring for silicone molds

There are a number of tips for maintaining silicone molds. They tend to attract specks and dust, so they should be stored in a closed box. They are laid out in one layer to prevent deformation. Before pouring epoxy, the molds are washed with soap and dried.

Finished castings are removed from the molds under running water; this is easier than taking them out dry. Molds are easily scratched by sharp objects and can no longer be used. If you follow all these rules, the molds will last a long time and can be used many times.

When working with epoxy resin, it is very important what forms (molds) the master uses. Of course, you can buy them, but what to do in a situation where you need to get the form quickly, but there is no time to search and wait for delivery?

There is only one way out. Namely, make the mold with your own hands. Today's selection of lessons will help you learn how to make molds for pouring with your own hands.

Anyone who is seriously engaged in the manufacture of costume jewelry and women's jewelry also takes the search for the best tools, devices and materials very seriously. After all, quality is a guarantee of success.

And it often happens that too much time passes from the birth of an idea to the birth of a result. Or a completely interesting and original project ends up in a long box. And the only reason is that the necessary and ideally suitable materials and accessories cannot be obtained or they are too expensive.

In such a situation, one master will literally “dig the earth with his nose” in order to find a more or less adequate replacement for what is needed, and may even take on the task of making everything necessary himself. And this is correct, because “your” instrument, although it appears “in pain,” always turns out to be the most convenient.

It's not as difficult as it seems. The main thing is to understand what exactly needs to be done. For example, you can simply use the knowledge of those who have already gained experience in this matter.

A craftswoman under the nickname Lida Floral Beauty offers you a master class on making a mold for pouring epoxy resin. It can be used to produce spherical and hemispherical parts for jewelry.

For work you will need: special silicone for making molds (molds), a hardener for it, plastic cups and jars of the required sizes - clean and dry, glass beads of different diameters, moment-crystal glue. A description of the entire process can be found in the link below:

In addition to the photo master class, we offer you a selection of lessons in video format.

How to make molds with your own hands. Video master classes

How to make molds for epoxy resin:

DIY epoxy resin molds:

Do-it-yourself molds for epoxy resin at the lowest cost:

DIY silicone molds:

Silicone and starch molds for epoxy resin:

Discussion of the article

Previously, we published a master class and general tutorials; in this material we will tell you how to make chic ball earrings or a brooch using this technique. In fact, everything is much simpler than it seems.

Materials and tools:

• Two syringes without a needle (sold at any pharmacy)
• Container for mixing resin and hardener (plastic cup)
• Stick for this mixing (wooden)
• Ceramic tiles or cardboard (in general, any flat, hard surface, preferably on a flat table)
• Scotch tape (wide, single-sided)
• Accessories for jewelry (connectors, earrings, connecting rings, bases)
• Mini drill (sold in almost any construction store, take the cheapest one, I personally use DREMEL 300)
• A set of attachments for it (a small drill and an emery head for turning)
• silicone molds for filling balls, which can be purchased at a craft store
• Good mood for yourself. Well, gloves with a respirator would be nice

Progress

We fill the silicone mold with two-component epoxy resin to the middle.

Then we carefully place our rose in it, trying not to break it.

After this, fill the mold to the brim. That's it, nothing else depends on us. We are waiting 24 hours.

Take the ball out of the mold. Under warm water this process will become much easier. We cut off the ugly top of the ball at the place where the fastening will be.

If the ball itself has any bumps or scratches, you can polish it. To do this, you will need a separate mini-drill at low speeds and special polishing attachments.

We attach a cap to the top of the ball (you can also glue it to a drop of resin), then attach a wire.

So, almost without much effort, we made an original and unusual decoration!

Materials and tools:

• Two syringes without a needle (sold at any pharmacy)
• Container for mixing resin and hardener (plastic cup)
• Stick for this mixing (wooden)
• Ceramic tiles or cardboard (in general, any flat, hard surface, preferably on a flat table)
• Scotch tape (wide, single-sided)
• Accessories for jewelry (connectors, earrings, connecting rings, bases)
• Mini drill (sold in almost any construction store, take the cheapest one, I personally use DREMEL 300)
• A set of attachments for it (a small drill and an emery head for turning)
• silicone molds for filling balls, which can be purchased at a craft store
• Good mood for yourself. Well, gloves with a respirator would be nice

Progress

We fill the silicone mold with two-component epoxy resin to the middle.

Then we carefully place our rose in it, trying not to break it.

After this, fill the mold to the brim. That's it, nothing else depends on us. We are waiting 24 hours.

Take the ball out of the mold. Under warm water this process will become much easier. We cut off the ugly top of the ball at the place where the fastening will be.

If the ball itself has any bumps or scratches, you can polish it. To do this, you will need a separate mini-drill at low speeds and special polishing attachments.